RockVia Nicola Molin
The route climbs predominantly excellent rock, at times good in places. The route climbs the large roof in the NW Face and was freed in summer 2010 by Ruggero Zardini with his wife Monica.
GETTING THERE
From Cortina drive towards Passo Giau and park the car at Ponte di rù Curto. Alternatively take the taxi from Cortina to Rifugio Croda da Lago. (Servizio taxi, tel. 0436 860888).
ACCESS
From Ponte di Rù Curto take path No. 437 then 434 to Rifugio Croda da Lago, then continue to Forcella Ambrizzola (2.00 hours circa). From here continue towards the "Becco" across scree to reach the start of the route (20 minutes).
ROUTE
The first two pitches climb up the right-hand side of the North pedestal.
Pitch 3 leads to the large roof.
Pitch 4 climbs climbs through the weakest section of the roof (7c).
Pitches 5 & 6 ascend vertically above the roof, with delicate climbing.
The final pitch climbs easy terrain to the pre-summit.
A 8m abseil leads to the col beneath, from here continue SE via an easy grade III scramble to the summit.
DESCENT
Descend down the normal route.
GEAR
The route is protected by a mix of bolts and pegs, take a set of medium and small camming devices for the easier pitches, one 60 rope and 13 quickdraws.
