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Via Bepi Mazzotti

First ascent: Umberto Marampon & L. Zulian, 1985. First free ascent Rolando Larcher 02/10/2006
By: Planetmountain
Area: Brescia and Garda pre-Alps, Group: Valle del Sarca, Peak: Piccolo Dain, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Nice aid route first ascended by Umberto Marampon and L. Zulian on  Piccolo Dain in 1985 and freed by Rolando Larcher in 2006. The 450m line up one of the most beautiful rock faces in the Sarca valley climb difficulties up to 8a and the result is described by Larcher as "an interesting and demanding line".

GETTING THERE

From Trento or Arco drive to the town Sarche located at the foot of Mt. Dain.

ACCESS

Reach the start of the route from Sarche in circa 30 minutes.

ROUTE

P1: 3b
P2: 6a
P3: 6c+
P4: 5b
P5 7b+
P6: 7c+
P7: 6c
P8: 7b+
P9: 7b+
P10: 6c
P11: 8a
P12: 4b

DESCENT

From the top of the route scramble up for 50, into the wood, then follow the steep path into the Limarò gulley and join up with the path which leads from Ranzo to Sarche, 1 hour.

GEAR

1st half: full rack, kevlar threads, nuts and camming devices (up to yellow Camalot), 18 quickdraws)
2nd half, above the hanging garden: equipped belays, take a set of nuts and quickdraws.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

8a

FACE

South

LENGTH

450m - 12 pitches

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Via Bepi Mazzotti

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