L'Ange en Décomposition - Gorges du Verdon
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Alan Carne
Another masterpiece by Philippe Maclé, "Ange" is one of the routes in the gorge. The rock quality is outstanding and the climb takes an extremely exposed line up the Fenrir prow with the entire Verdon void beneath your feet. Soloed by Alain Robert, this climb is simply unmissable.
From the north: take the A6 motoway to Avignon and take the N100 for Apt, then Manosque and Riez. From here take the D56 to Moustiers, and continue along the D952 to La Palud.
From the south: from Nice take the N85 to Castellane, and continue along the D952 for La Palud. Shortly before entering the village turn left along the D23, the panoramic Route des Cretes, which leads to the Belvedere de la Carelle lookout and the routes.
Park the car at the Belvedere de la Carelle and follow the path right up through the shrub. The sector is marked with a plaque and cairn. To get to the route scramble down on to the ledge.
ItineraryP1: 6c
P2: 7a
P3: 6a
Two 60/70m ropes are indespensable. Bring 2 prussik loops for the abseils and 12 quickdraws.
NotesThe Verdon requires perfect abseiling technique. Never forget to tie a knot in the end of the ropes, and tie into prussik loops, prior to abseiling.
Maps/Bibliography"Escalade au Verdon" by P. Légier, F. Ristori and A. Jam
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