Kaos - Monte Gallo
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Kaos: Luca Giupponi on pitch 7 (7b+) of Kaos. Photo Maurizio Oviglia.
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher & Maurizio Oviglia, 15/16/18 March 2009. redpoint 19/03/2009
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
North
Length
325m
Height
400m
Difficulty
7c
Obligatory difficulty
7a+ oblig, expo
Fantastic modern climb up slabs and through overhang, demanding and varied, with some impressive pitches. Exposure guaranteed. Bolts at times run-out with difficult obligatory sections.
Getting there
From Palermo reach the beach at Mondello. Access
From Mondello enter the Monte Gallo Reserve (5 € entrance fee for car) and continue to the lighthouse, park here. Continue on foot along the road to where it ends, then along a narrow path which coasts the cliff to the end close to some large boulders. traverse the scree slope and reach the base of the wall and ivy plants. Coast the base to the start of the route (25 minutes from the lighthouse, 45 minutes from Mondello) Itinerary
P1: 7a+
P2: 6a+
P3: 6c
P4: 6c+
P5: 6c+
P6: 7c
P7: 7b+
P8: 7a Descent
- 1st 50m abseil to belay 7, clip the quickdraws as you descend
- 2nd abseil to belay 6, clip the quickdraws as you descend
- 3rd abseil, 60m, to the ledge and comfortable belay 4, clip some quickdraws
- 4th abseil to belay 3
- 5th abseil to belay 1, 60m
- 6th abseil back to the ground
All belays are equipped with stainless steel maillon rapide Gear
Stainless steel bolts, some glue-in bolts on fragile rock. Some slings. Take 12 quickdraws, 60m ropes and slings for the threads.
From Palermo reach the beach at Mondello. Access
From Mondello enter the Monte Gallo Reserve (5 € entrance fee for car) and continue to the lighthouse, park here. Continue on foot along the road to where it ends, then along a narrow path which coasts the cliff to the end close to some large boulders. traverse the scree slope and reach the base of the wall and ivy plants. Coast the base to the start of the route (25 minutes from the lighthouse, 45 minutes from Mondello) Itinerary
P1: 7a+
P2: 6a+
P3: 6c
P4: 6c+
P5: 6c+
P6: 7c
P7: 7b+
P8: 7a Descent
- 1st 50m abseil to belay 7, clip the quickdraws as you descend
- 2nd abseil to belay 6, clip the quickdraws as you descend
- 3rd abseil, 60m, to the ledge and comfortable belay 4, clip some quickdraws
- 4th abseil to belay 3
- 5th abseil to belay 1, 60m
- 6th abseil back to the ground
All belays are equipped with stainless steel maillon rapide Gear
Stainless steel bolts, some glue-in bolts on fragile rock. Some slings. Take 12 quickdraws, 60m ropes and slings for the threads.
Comments
14/12/2009 mirto monaco
sabato 12 dicembre abbiamo compiuto la prima ripetizione pulita di questa spettacolare via che tanto ci ha coinvolto per l'ambiente in cui si trova e la bellezza dei tiri, complimenti agli apritori, immagino la felicità che avranno provato e l'adrenalina in apertura!Mirto Monaco e Cristian Leube
Beauty
First ascent
Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher & Maurizio Oviglia, 15/16/18 March 2009. redpoint 19/03/2009
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
North
Length
325m
Height
400m
Difficulty
7c
Obligatory difficulty
7a+ oblig, expo
Routes in the same mountain group