Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowRock arrowRoutes arrowKaos

Kaos

First ascent: Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher & Maurizio Oviglia, 15/16/18 March 2009. redpoint 19/03/2009
By: Maurizio Oviglia
Area: Apennines, Group: Sicilian Apennines, Peak: Monte Gallo, Height: 400m, Country: Italy, Region: Sicily

Fantastic modern climb up slabs and through overhang, demanding and varied, with some impressive pitches. Exposure guaranteed. Bolts at times run-out with difficult obligatory sections.

GETTING THERE

From Palermo reach the beach at Mondello.

ACCESS

From Mondello enter the Monte Gallo Reserve (5 € entrance fee for car) and continue to the lighthouse, park here. Continue on foot along the road to where it ends, then along a narrow path which coasts the cliff to the end close to some large boulders. traverse the scree slope and reach the base of the wall and ivy plants. Coast the base to the start of the route (25 minutes from the lighthouse, 45 minutes from Mondello)

ROUTE

P1: 7a+
P2: 6a+
P3: 6c
P4: 6c+
P5: 6c+
P6: 7c
P7: 7b+
P8: 7a

DESCENT

- 1st 50m abseil to belay 7, clip the quickdraws as you descend
 - 2nd abseil to belay 6, clip the quickdraws as you descend
- 3rd abseil, 60m, to the ledge and comfortable belay 4, clip some quickdraws
- 4th abseil to belay 3
- 5th abseil to belay 1, 60m
- 6th abseil back to the ground
All belays are equipped with stainless steel maillon rapide

GEAR

Stainless steel bolts, some glue-in bolts on fragile rock. Some slings. Take 12 quickdraws, 60m ropes and slings for the threads.

Share this page

COMMENTS for the route "Kaos"

14-12-2009, mirto monaco
sabato 12 dicembre abbiamo compiuto la prima ripetizione pulita di questa spettacolare via che tanto ci ha coinvolto per l'ambiente in cui si trova e la bellezza dei tiri, complimenti agli apritori, immagino la felicità che avranno provato e l'adrenalina in apertura!Mirto Monaco e Cristian Leube
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7c

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a+ oblig, expo

FACE

North

LENGTH

325m

VOTES / itinerary
USERS VOTE:
stella stella stella stella stella
Vote the itinerary
COMMENT / itinerary

PERSONAL AREA

Add your email and password:

Username:

Password:


SEARCH routes

GROUP

Peak

Route

More itineraries
EXPO / Products
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Campanile di Val Montanaia - Via Normale
    Per precisazione:"la sosta a spit" si incontra sul secondo t ...
    2014-10-20 / francesco gherlenda
  • Evergreen
    Ho salito la via questa estate e naturalmente ci siamo conge ...
    2014-10-20 / francesco gherlenda
  • Rataplan
    Ripetizione del 20.09.2014L1 6c bella fessura non banale pe ...
    2014-09-23 / oscar meloni
  • Via Paola
    ripetuta per la quarta volta, mi sento di proporre questi gr ...
    2014-09-01 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello