Via Giovanni Segantini - Monte Colodri
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Via Giovanni Segantini: Photo Giampaolo Calzà
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Antonini Massimo, Giampaolo 'Trota' Calzà, 09/2008
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
E
Length
280m
Difficulty
6c+
Period
Spring, autumn
Route
On 19 September Massimo Antonini and Giampaolo Calzà completed the first ascent of Via Giovanni Segantini on the East Face of Monte Colodri, Arco, Italy.
The route pays homage to both the 1858 Arco born artist and the art of climbers themselves who interpret virgin walls as a canvass for their new climbs. Unsurprisingly the 8th pitch follows the legendary "Specchio delle mie brame", the line first ascended by Roberto Bassi and Heinz Mariacher in the golden days of sport climbing development in Arco.
As Calzà explains: "this is a famous pitch, extremely famous for all those who were around at the time: it's a slab, the first in the Sarva valley to have been bolted, bolted from above, on purpose for sport climbing by two famous climbers, Roberto Bassi and Heinz Mariacher, two forerunners of this sort not only in Arco but worldwide. Naturally we left this beautiful slab exactly how it had been conceived, which means the same distance between one bolt and the next. Needless to say that here good technique is of the essence."
The route pays homage to both the 1858 Arco born artist and the art of climbers themselves who interpret virgin walls as a canvass for their new climbs. Unsurprisingly the 8th pitch follows the legendary "Specchio delle mie brame", the line first ascended by Roberto Bassi and Heinz Mariacher in the golden days of sport climbing development in Arco.
As Calzà explains: "this is a famous pitch, extremely famous for all those who were around at the time: it's a slab, the first in the Sarva valley to have been bolted, bolted from above, on purpose for sport climbing by two famous climbers, Roberto Bassi and Heinz Mariacher, two forerunners of this sort not only in Arco but worldwide. Naturally we left this beautiful slab exactly how it had been conceived, which means the same distance between one bolt and the next. Needless to say that here good technique is of the essence."
Getting there
Reach Arco. Access
From Arco head to the town swimming pool, then make your way up left to the base of the wall. Descent
From the top of the route descend left to the Via Ferrata Colodri, or continue on down over limestone paving to Laghel and then the center of Arco. Gear
15 quickdraws Notes
The Colodri receives the sun until 13.00.
Reach Arco. Access
From Arco head to the town swimming pool, then make your way up left to the base of the wall. Descent
From the top of the route descend left to the Via Ferrata Colodri, or continue on down over limestone paving to Laghel and then the center of Arco. Gear
15 quickdraws Notes
The Colodri receives the sun until 13.00.
See all photos
Comments
31/10/2010 vitto
Bellissima via su roccia fantastica! Complimenti agli apritori! Secondo noi i gradi: 7a, 6c/6c+, 7a, 6b+, 6c, 6a, 6a, 6c, 5c. Comodo calarsi sulla via :-)
19/06/2010 mic
bella e divertente via nel cuore del colodri, gradi un pò strettini nei primi tiri ma spittatura ottima. complimenti agli apritori
26/10/2009 amos
Super Via :-).
I gradi sono severi, non si azzera niente !
Le protezioni, anche se non vicine, sono ottime e messe con criterio. I rischi sono contenuti anche se talvolta qualche brivido caldo non manca... Lo specchio ha uno spittaggio lontano.
Fare con faciltà il 7b aiuta ;-)
Bravo "Trota"
Beauty
First ascent
Antonini Massimo, Giampaolo 'Trota' Calzà, 09/2008
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
E
Length
280m
Difficulty
6c+
Period
Spring, autumn
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
02/11/2008 - Climbing
New rock climb on Monte Colodri, Arco Massimo Antonini and Giampaolo Calzà have made the first ascent of Via Giovanni Segantini (280m, 6c+ max) on the East Face of Monte Colodri (Arco, Italy)