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Jedi Master

First ascent: Maurizio Oviglia, Sara Oviglia & Paolo Seimandi, 09/2008
By: Maurizio Oviglia
Area: Graian Alps, Group: Gran Paradiso, Peak: Sergent, Country: Italy, Region: Piemonte

Magnificent granite climbing which alternates demanding slabs with fantastic cracks.

GETTING THERE

From Turin head east along the Ss460 towards Rivarolo, Cuorgnè, Pont Canavese, to the start of Valle dell'Orco. Continue to the end of the tunnel, just before Ceresole, then turn off left and park next to the campsite. Car thieves operate slightly further up the valley.

ACCESS

Continue along the road until access is barred, where it begins to descend. On the slab on the left there is a kairn. Walk up through the wood then the scree slope (kairn markers) to the start of Nautilus (15 minutes). The start of the route is located 20m to the left.

DESCENT

Abseil down the route (two 60m ropes). From the ledge make the final abseil down the Elisir d'Incastro chimney, then follow the track back to the start.

GEAR

Friends up to 4 BD, 1, 2 and 3. Set of nuts, slings, 2 60m ropes.

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

Rock Paradise, by Maurizio Oviglia, Edizioni Versante Sud

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Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

I/S2/6c+ max

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6b

FACE

SW

LENGTH

190m

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