Diedro Mayerl - Heiligkreuzkofel
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Diedro Mayerl
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
S. Mayerl, M. Rohracher (1962)
By
Planetmountain
Length
500m
Height
2825m
Difficulty
-7
Obligatory difficulty
6 A1
Route
Logical and extremely exposed line up the obvious corner to the left of the ”Grande Muro”. On the whole the route climbs up fairly solid rock, but in parts though this may be a bit friable.
Getting there
Take the motorway A22 to Bressanone, then continue along the SS49 through the Val Pusteria to S.Lorenzo. Continue along the SS244 through the Val Badia to Corvara. Alternatively, take the motorway A22 to Chiusa and continue along the SS242 up the Val Gardena to Passo Gardena and down to Corvara. At Corvara follow signs for La Villa - Pedraces. At Pedraces take the chairlift on the right to the refuge and church Santa Croce, from where the path leads off to the base of the routes. Access
From Santa Croce (2045m), beneath Sass dla Crusc, follow path no. 7 that leads beneath the mountain past scree slopes and alpine meadows up to the ferrata. The path initially leads over scree to then climb up rightwards. Leave the path at this point following a track (cairn markers) up the long outcrop to the base of the wall proper. Various tracks lead to the route at this point: traverse left at the end over the final outcrop and scramble up scree to the base of the large corner. Descent
From the top of the route follow the crest and path right (south) to reach Furcla dla Crusc 2609m and the cables belonging to the ferrate. Walk down this to meet up with the path that leads to the Santa Croce refuge (1.30 hours). Gear
Normal alpine rack. Notes
The 60m pitches can be divided into two pitches. Belays in-situ.
Take the motorway A22 to Bressanone, then continue along the SS49 through the Val Pusteria to S.Lorenzo. Continue along the SS244 through the Val Badia to Corvara. Alternatively, take the motorway A22 to Chiusa and continue along the SS242 up the Val Gardena to Passo Gardena and down to Corvara. At Corvara follow signs for La Villa - Pedraces. At Pedraces take the chairlift on the right to the refuge and church Santa Croce, from where the path leads off to the base of the routes. Access
From Santa Croce (2045m), beneath Sass dla Crusc, follow path no. 7 that leads beneath the mountain past scree slopes and alpine meadows up to the ferrata. The path initially leads over scree to then climb up rightwards. Leave the path at this point following a track (cairn markers) up the long outcrop to the base of the wall proper. Various tracks lead to the route at this point: traverse left at the end over the final outcrop and scramble up scree to the base of the large corner. Descent
From the top of the route follow the crest and path right (south) to reach Furcla dla Crusc 2609m and the cables belonging to the ferrate. Walk down this to meet up with the path that leads to the Santa Croce refuge (1.30 hours). Gear
Normal alpine rack. Notes
The 60m pitches can be divided into two pitches. Belays in-situ.
Comments
31/07/2009 christian denicolo
Ho salito ieri col mio amico Gustav,31 luglio 2009 la via mayerl..bella salita,molto aerea,una via che riechiede concentrazione e gran impegno dall´inizio alla fine.Ha tratti friabilissimi altri stupendi specialmente la lama del 4 tiro e le placche nel finale.Tempo di salita 5 ore
03/09/2007 Ivano c.
Via molto bella. linea stupenda ma molto faticosa, non molla mai.Soste tutte ottime. Per farla senza problemi bisogna avere un grado obbligatorio in montagna ben oltre il sesto, a mio modesto vedere.Roccia non sempre buona.Ambiente da favola.Consigliabile.Gianni-Ivano
19/06/2007 Piero Pagliani
Quella volta ero veramente in stato di grazia: me la ricordo atletica, di puro godimento e senza patemi, a parte un breve bombamento inassicurabile sul traverso del VII tiro e la sosta subito dopo che se ne stava andando via mentre ero appeso (mi sono portato a casa un chiodo di Mayerl tolto con le mani - ma anche l'altro si muoveva: il momento più brr brr della salita). Occhio ai macigni instabilmente incastrati verso la fine (meglio spaccare alla Nureyev ma non toccarli, se amate il vostro secondo). Placconate da paura a destra e a sinistra. Fantastico.
06/09/2006 Albi Albi
Salita entusiasmante.Roccia ormai ripulita grazie alle numerose ripetizioni. Sono d'accordo con Marcello,la si fa tranquillamente in 6 tiri con rinvii lunghi.
Beauty
First ascent
S. Mayerl, M. Rohracher (1962)
By
Planetmountain
Length
500m
Height
2825m
Difficulty
-7
Obligatory difficulty
6 A1
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
