Rock climb established in July 2002 by local Scoiattolo climber Massimo "Mox" Da Pozzo and his colleague from the GDF Cortina mountain rescue team Danilo Serafini. The route climbs the pillar to the left of "Super tegolina", and is paired with "Excusez moi ... la va de qua?”, the other route established in August 2002 by Massimo Da Pozzo with Bruno Sartorelli .The style is the same as ever: long pitches, the ‘right’ pro, never abundant. Obligatory climbing from one bolt to the next, with no chance of aiding. Although not extreme, the route requires a certain degree of fitness. Good rock quality in a superb setting.
Passo Giau is reached easily either from Cortina via the SS48 and SS638, or from Caprile for those coming from the Agordino.
Park the car a few hairpin bends below Passo Giau, towards Cortina, and take path #436 towards Forcella Giau. After the forest the path steepens; continue left along a trail past large boulders to the scree slopes that spill down from the Lastoni di Formin. Traverse high to reach the base of the wall. Allow about an hour for the walk-in.
Abseil down the route (minimum 2 x 55m ropes) or reach the Formin col at the foot of Croda da Lago, then follow the path south and traverse right below the face to reach Forcella Giau and return to the approach path.
Small and mid sized friends (see topo, 2 55m ropes, ideally 60m ropes, a dozen quickdraws.