Gancetto Felice - Cima della Madonna
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Gancetto Felice
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Danilo Bonvecchio, Rolando Larcher
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
N
Length
400m + 100m initial bastion
Difficulty
6b
Obligatory difficulty
6b
Route
A splendid modern route in one of the most beautiful areas in the Dolomites.
Getting there
Take the SS50 (Fiera di Primiero - Passo Rolle) and turn off onto the track which leads up to Malga Zivertaghe 1375m (3 km). Continue on foot along path No. 713 to Rifugio Del Velo (2.30 hours). Access
From Rif. Del Velo take a path down to the Ferrate del Velo. Ascend the ferrate then traverse right to the arête and continue left up the deep gully which separates the north face from the two obvious detached pillars. Continue up the gully, at times via easy scrambling up the left, to the gully’s highest point. Belay on the small ledge with starting bolt. Descent
Given the length of the route abseil down the line. Alternatively descend from the summit as for Spigolo del Velo. Gear
Two 55m ropes, 12 quickdraws, nuts and friends
Take the SS50 (Fiera di Primiero - Passo Rolle) and turn off onto the track which leads up to Malga Zivertaghe 1375m (3 km). Continue on foot along path No. 713 to Rifugio Del Velo (2.30 hours). Access
From Rif. Del Velo take a path down to the Ferrate del Velo. Ascend the ferrate then traverse right to the arête and continue left up the deep gully which separates the north face from the two obvious detached pillars. Continue up the gully, at times via easy scrambling up the left, to the gully’s highest point. Belay on the small ledge with starting bolt. Descent
Given the length of the route abseil down the line. Alternatively descend from the summit as for Spigolo del Velo. Gear
Two 55m ropes, 12 quickdraws, nuts and friends
Comments
16/10/2012 paolo piaia
un vero peccato una via a spit su quella parete...
28/08/2009 mic
perchè già non ce ne sono abbastanza spit sulle pale...
11/04/2004 Tommy
La via è bella, peccato però che i primi salitori poco rispettosi di un etica piu pulita siano saliti dove altri (che conosco) erano già saliti con mezzi "puliti" e con piu coraggio.Per cui la via non è neanche nuova.Comunque a parte tutti questi difetti è carina.
29/07/2002 nicola balestra
i primi 2 tiri non sono molto belli mentr gli altri due si;le gradazioni sono sbagliate sulla relaz.:1.6a-2.5+-3.6b+-4.6b
Beauty
First ascent
Danilo Bonvecchio, Rolando Larcher
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
N
Length
400m + 100m initial bastion
Difficulty
6b
Obligatory difficulty
6b
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
