Jeef - Punta di U Corbu
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Maurizio Oviglia
1 / 5
Jeef: Rolando Larcher climbing the famous eye on pitch 2
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Arnaud & Francois Petit, 1992, from above
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
S
Length
400m
Difficulty
7a+ max
Obligatory difficulty
6b expo
Route
Significantly harder than Dos de l’éléphant, Jeef is a masterpiece in terms of beauty and the demanding nature of its climbing - photos of the route have been published in magazines worldwide. 6b is obligatory and potential repeaters should master this grade with ease. A set of camming devices is highly recommended to integrate the run-outs. The third pitch is known to being morphological. The final section joins up with the Elefante and reaches the summit of Punta U Corbu by climbing 4 pitches first ascended by the Petit brothers in 1993. From the summit abseil down Delicatessen via a series of impressive and complicated abseils.
Getting there
From Solenzara take the road towards. After Bocca di Larone (608 m), the view opens onto the beautiful granite towers. Continue to the bridge at Polischellu and park the car here. Access
Do not follow the path on the right (hydrographic left) which leads to Teghie Lisce, but follow a track along the other bank. Keep as close as possible to the river and, when you reach a reddish rock face (circa 30 minutes from the bridge) ascend up a dry river bed to the base of an obvious rounded pillar (1.15 hours)
Descent
From the top of Delicatessen (south face). The descent is demanding; diagonal and overhanging, clip the quickdraws during you abseil to remain close to the rock (50m ropes, prussik indispensable). Gear
12 quickdraws, friends 0,5,2 e 3 indispensable, double 50m x 9mm ropes, a selection of nuts. The route is equipped with 10mm bolts.
From Solenzara take the road towards. After Bocca di Larone (608 m), the view opens onto the beautiful granite towers. Continue to the bridge at Polischellu and park the car here. Access
Do not follow the path on the right (hydrographic left) which leads to Teghie Lisce, but follow a track along the other bank. Keep as close as possible to the river and, when you reach a reddish rock face (circa 30 minutes from the bridge) ascend up a dry river bed to the base of an obvious rounded pillar (1.15 hours)
Descent
From the top of Delicatessen (south face). The descent is demanding; diagonal and overhanging, clip the quickdraws during you abseil to remain close to the rock (50m ropes, prussik indispensable). Gear
12 quickdraws, friends 0,5,2 e 3 indispensable, double 50m x 9mm ropes, a selection of nuts. The route is equipped with 10mm bolts.
Comments
21/04/2008 Alex Mayer
Via bellisima, dall atacco fino in cima. Sopratutto il tetto nella parte alta è una meraviglia.
24/05/2006 enrico pastori
Via meravigliosa e impegnativa da sola vale il viaggio in Corsica. La chiodatura è abbastanza lunga ma non pericolosa friends non necessari. Affrontarla solo se padroni del grado obbligatorio su granito (placche appoggiate), i due tiri più duri sono caratterizzati da passi boulder facilmente azzerabili. Un commento dettagliato della via e dell'accesso è sul libro d'oro del rifugio di Col Di Bavella consigliabile anche per pernottare.
Beauty
First ascent
Arnaud & Francois Petit, 1992, from above
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
S
Length
400m
Difficulty
7a+ max
Obligatory difficulty
6b expo
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
14/07/2001 - Climbing
Corsica rock climbing Climbing on Corsica: a selection of some of the best multi-pitch rock climbs in Bavella, Val Restonica and Valle du Tavignano. By Maurizio Oviglia.