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Elixier d’Astaroth

First ascent: M. Piola, P.A. Steiner e R. Vogler, 1981
By: Roberto Rossi
Area: Graian Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Grand Capucin, Country: France

This is the most direct line up the vertical wall, the exposure is total and the climbing, apart from a small section half-way up the aid pitch, is always pumpy and sustained. Not all belays have in-situ gear, but the cracks accept plenty of pro. Although not as famous as Voyage selon Gulliver, many consider this route harder and more beautiful than its neighbour.

ACCESS

From Rifugio Torino (3375m) traverse west towards Col des Flambeaux. From here continue beneath the cable car and left to then continue at altitude towards the inconfoundable Grand Capucin, in front of the Touronde. There are two small corners at the base of the route capped by small roofs; climb the right-hand corner.

DESCENT

Abseil down to the left of the route. Excellent belays.

GEAR

A full rack of nuts and twin set of friends up to # 3. A hammer may be found useful for the aid pitch, especially at the start of the season.

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COMMENTS for the route "Elixier d’Astaroth"

25-08-2004, Maurizio Zara
via splendida, diretta e centrale. Notevole impegno psicofisico
27-07-2003, Nicola Vonarburg
Supeba soprattutto per la ricerca del tracciato particolarmente astuto. Le difficoltà tecniche non sono elevatissime, ma comunque piuttosto impegnativa.
21-11-2001, Berichilli Patrick
non posso parlare che bene di questa via, molto dura nei passaggi chiave,ringrazzio Gianni che mi dato la possibiltà di scalarla,come prima esperienza sul Monte Bianco non la trovo male,andata e ritorno dal rif Torino 13 ore.
25-10-2001, M
Se non avete il "truffaldon" ovvero un luuuungo rinvio nastrato, portatevi martello e un "Bird Beak" Cassin per uscire dal tiro di artif...
Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

ED+, 7a+ max, A2

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6b+

FACE

South

LENGTH

400m

LINK ZONE

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