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Oasi

First ascent: L. Baumgartner e T. Panholzer
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Spalti di Col Becchei, Peak: Col Becchei, Country: Italy

Even though this is the easiest route described in this chapter, it is without a doubt one of the nicest. Fixed protection is lacking so bring wires and possibly even pegs and a hammer. The start and first two pitches are the same as for Super Ponzio. At the second belay move off diagonally rightwards.

GETTING THERE

From Cortina drive towards Dobbiaco along the SS51. After the small village Fiames turn left off the main road (signposted Val di Fanes - Trevenanzes). Park the car at the entrance to the park and continue on foot. Follow signs for Fanes, over several bridges and along the forest road. After a few bends the path straightens out and continues along the valley floor, past the Taé walls on the right, and then on to the Spalti di Col Becchei. The path forks at this point; go right over a small bridge onto the other side of the valley floor towards the Spalti. A cairn indicates a small path leading off rightwards through the wood steeply up to the rock face. To reach Illusione Ottica and Thriller scramble up the scree, traverse leftwards along an exposed section beneath a band of rock, and then return rightwards. The other routes are reached more easily by walking directly up to the base of the crag. Taé’s routes are reached by crossing the bridge and briefly following the road, to then ascend the gully on the right. Reach the pine trees and then scramble up the ramp rightwards to the base of the wall.

ACCESS

The start and first two pitches are the same as for Super Ponzio. At the second belay move off diagonally rightwards.

DESCENT

Abseil as for the other routes, or alternatively walk westwards directly down into the Val di Fanes.

GEAR

A set of wires and friends, pegs and a hammer.

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COMMENTS for the route "Oasi"

03-07-2006, Angelo Bon
Via molto bella da non sottovalutare, anche per la chiodatura quasi inesistente lungo i tiri.Partenza originale "a fondi".Soste tutte attrezzate.
15-10-2001, Paolo Ordigoni
Bella soprattutto nella prima metà, poi la roccia non è più così compatta, specie nel tiro del diedro sotto il tetto con lame da brivido. Soste attrezzate ma pochissimi chiodi di passaggio, proteggibile con friends e nuts.
30-10-2000, walter andrighetto
bella,roccia compatta;le soste sono tutte presenti mentre i tiri sono comodamente proteggibili a dadi e friends. I primi 5 metri del primo tiro sono il tratto chiave
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

5+/6a

FACE

SW

LENGTH

350m

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