L'or du temps
L'or du temps was climbed over four days in summer 2017 by Arnaud Petit and Nina Caprez.
The route shares the start of the Bonatti route, then breaks left after 2.5 pitches and continues independently and directly past steep, mainly overhanging climbing to practically right below the summit, where it joins what is believed to be the Ragni di Lecco route.
L'or du temps and is protected with trad gear wherever possibile along the cracks and corners. Nevertheless a total 27 bolts were placed along the pitches, and all belays are bolted. Some of these bolts were added after the first ascent in order to make the climbing less dangerous.
Once the rock is cleaned Petit believes the route may become a classic.
From Rifugio Torino (3375m) traverse west towards Col des Flambeaux. From here continue beneath the cable car and left to then continue at altitude towards the inconfoundable Grand Capucin. Start directly beneath the enormous grey corner, capped by a large roof.
6a, 6a, 7a, 6c, 7c+, 7b, 6b+, 7c, 7a, 7a, 6c+, 6a+
Cams: x 2 up to C2, 1 x C3
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