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La Divina Commedia - Buco del Piombo

Italy>Lombardy>Lugano pre-Alps>Como pre-Alps>Buco del Piombo

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La Divina Commedia: Simone Pedeferri and Luca Schiera during the first ascent of La Divina Commedia (8b+, 150m), Buco del Piombo Photo by Michele Caminati

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Beauty

First ascent

Simone Pedeferri, Luca Schiera, 2014

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Length

150m

Difficulty

8b+

Obligatory difficulty

Route

"The steepest multi-pitch climb I’ve ever established!" This is how Simone Pedeferri describes La Divina Commedia, the fascinating climb at Buco del Piombo in Valle Bova in Northern Italy together with another Ragni di Lecco member, Luca Schiera. Pedeferri’s words are no exaggeration: the spectacular arch is enormous and in its 150m length the route overhangs more than 70m. Almost a record! Obviously the difficulties are equally enormous: after an 8b and 8a ‘warm-up’ there’s the 8b+ crux pitch (that crosses an existing route), and the finally flurry towards the lip of the cave via a 7c, a 7c+/8a and a 7b. The route was cleaned and climbed in 17 days, freed in July 2014 and documented in this short film by another exceptional climber, Michele Caminati. The route is dedicated to Mario Canali, the 67-year-old local alpinist who died in the area in 2014.

Notes