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The Edge

First ascent: Nicola Tondini and Luca Montanari; one pitch with Tommaso Dusi. First free ascent: Nicola Tondini, June 2015, accompanied by Alessandro Baù and Claudio Migliorini.
By: Nicola Tondini
Area: Val Adige, Group: Brentino, Peak: Monte Cimo - Sass Mesdì, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Airy route that zigzags its way along the aerie past the large roofs. Exposure is the hallmark of this climb and almost all pitches contain bouldery cruxes. The easier sections are fairly run-out. This, combined with the exposure, creates an interesting mind game.

DESCENT

Abseil down the route Capitani Coraggiosi and Via del Babo

GEAR

7 quickdraws

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COMMENTS for the route "The Edge"

15-11-2015, Lepesant Ben
The first 3 pitches are excellent, after that the climbing remains good, but the awkwardness of the line is distracting. The line of the route is very illogical. Impressive bolting on lead though, with some interesting bits in between bolts. Great place overall. The crux pitch and the one below are awesome. Nice exposure. On the last pitch, we couldn't find the line across the big overhang, so we finished in the grass after the 4th bolt.
Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Best time of year: May to mid-November

DIFFICULTY

8a (7b obligatory), S3/4 (4,5m - 8m runouts), II (tecnica, chiodatura, ambiente)

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7b, S3/4

LENGTH

205m, 8 pitches

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The Edge

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