Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowRock arrowRoutes arrowTra Nuvole e Sogni

Tra Nuvole e Sogni

First ascent: Nicola Tondini and Andrea Simonini. First free ascent: Nicola Tondini October 2013.
By: Nicola Tondini
Area: Val Adige, Group: Brentino, Peak: Monte Cimo, Sass Mesdì, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

The crux pitch is overhanging and runs along a series of tufas. The pitches that follow are extremely technical. The unique 4th pitch (7c+) follows the arch via the few holds the rock provides. The 6th pitch (technical 7b) is not to be underestimated. Climbing predominantly on crimps and pockets.

ROUTE

Arrivati al sentiero di raccordo, si prende a sx (direzione sud) per 10 min fino alla placconata di “Desiderio Sofferto”. Seguire ancora il sentiero che scende leggermente in direzione sud per 100m.

P1: 
25m, 7b, 4 bolts, 2 bolts at the belay, not to be underestimated (S3+).
P2: 20m, 6b, 4 bolts, 2 bolts with ring at the belay
P3: 30m, 8a, 7 bolts, 2 bolts with ring at the belay, pumpy overhang
P4: 35m, 7c+, 9 bolts, 2 bolts with ring at the belay, techncial vercial face climbing with final run-out
P5: 30m, 6b+, 5 bolts, 2 bolts with ring at the belay, beautiful face climbing followed by easier finish
P6: 36m, 7b, 5 bolts,2 bolts with ring at the belay, tehcnical slab, good footwork required
P7: 32m, 7a+, 7 bolts, 2 bolts with ring at the bela, beautiful. Run-out pro (S3+)


Nota (1): la via è stata chiodata dal basso senza fare artificiale e senza fare alcun resting aggiuntivo su cliff tra le protezioni
Nota (2): fix = tasselli Raumer inox da 10mm

DESCENT

5 abseils down the route (max 40m).

GEAR

8 quickdraws, 2 x 60m ropes or 1 x 80m

NOTES

On 21/05/2017 Rolando Larcher and Herman Zanetti made the probable first repeat.

Share this page

COMMENTS for the route "Tra Nuvole e Sogni"

No comments found for Tra Nuvole e Sogni

Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

PERIOD

Best time of year: September to November and March to May.

DIFFICULTY

8a (7b obligatory), S3+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7b, S3+

LENGTH

205m, 7 pitches

PDF

Tra Nuvole e Sogni

LINK ZONE

Read main article

VOTES / itinerary
USERS VOTE:
stella stella stella stella stella
Vote the itinerary
COMMENT / itinerary

PERSONAL AREA

Add your email and password:

Username:

Password:


SEARCH routes

GROUP

Peak

Route

More itineraries
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra
  • Una via per te fatta in tre
    Prima ripetizione effettuata il 3/11. Da rettificare la diff ...
    2015-11-13 / maurizio piller%20hoffer
  • Via Hruschka
    Salita il 18 marzo 2015 con Alice, Federico e Stefano. Via v ...
    2015-03-20 / Giovanni Zaccaria