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Nato due volte

First ascent: Fabrice Calabrese, Mauro Florit, Eugenio Pinotti, 18-19-20 March 2015
By: Eugenio Pinotti
Area: Apennines, Group: Sicilian Apennines, Peak: Monte Gallo (Nuovo Mondo), Height: 567m, Country: Italy, Region: Sicily

Varied and interesting climbing rock up beautifully featured rock.

GETTING THERE

Reach Palermo and then Mondello.

ACCESS

From Mondello reach the entrance of the Capo Gallo nature reserve (€ 5.00 toll, negotiable...) and follow this to the end close to the lighthouse (car park). Follow the track to the face, coast this rightwards, pass the arête and enter the Nuovo Mondo amphitheater. Scramble up the slope to below the large rectangular roof located on the lower section of the wall. Ascend the small pedestal to reach the pulpit (cairn); the route starts on a narrow ledge with big spike to the leftt of the pulpit (20 minutes from the car).

ROUTE

P1: 40m, 6a
P2: 30m, 6b/+
P3: 20m, 6a+
P4: 30m, 6b
P5: 30m, 6a+
P6: 45m, 6b+
P7: 35m, 7a/+

DESCENT

Abseil down the route.The belay stations are all equipped with an absei lring.

GEAR

Stainless steel bolted climb. Take 2 x 60m ropes, some slings and 12 quickdraws. Insitu 51 bolts + 14 at the belay and 3 threads.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7a+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6b+ obligatory

FACE

North

LENGTH

230m

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Nato due volte

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