Incantos - Su Accara, Ulassai
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Maurizio Oviglia
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Incantos
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu (April 2015)
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
South
Length
110m
Height
900m
Difficulty
7a+ max (6b+ obl)
Period
The wall faces south and is located at 900m. While it is ideal in spring and autumn,climbing is also possible on sunny winter days. In summer the face receives the shade early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
Route
Demanding stamina climbing up the yellow, often overhanging face.
Access
From Ulassai to take the road towards Santa Barbara. Drive past a first lane, then a second lane with a gate. Park the car in the layby on the left, at a third lane. Follow this on foot and after 5 minutes discreetly walk through private property. At the end of the road climb over a fence and follow the path diagonally upwards towards the tower. Reach an old track. Follow this leftwards for 5 minutes to reach a giant cube of rock on the left. From here scramble upwards past cairn markers to the base of the cliff (25 minutes). Itinerary
P1: 7a+
P2: 6b
P3: 6c+
P4: 6b+
P5: 6a Descent
Abseil descent, the second being 60m into the void Gear
12 quickdraws and 2 x 60m ropes, helmet
From Ulassai to take the road towards Santa Barbara. Drive past a first lane, then a second lane with a gate. Park the car in the layby on the left, at a third lane. Follow this on foot and after 5 minutes discreetly walk through private property. At the end of the road climb over a fence and follow the path diagonally upwards towards the tower. Reach an old track. Follow this leftwards for 5 minutes to reach a giant cube of rock on the left. From here scramble upwards past cairn markers to the base of the cliff (25 minutes). Itinerary
P1: 7a+
P2: 6b
P3: 6c+
P4: 6b+
P5: 6a Descent
Abseil descent, the second being 60m into the void Gear
12 quickdraws and 2 x 60m ropes, helmet
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Beauty
First ascent
Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu (April 2015)
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
South
Length
110m
Height
900m
Difficulty
7a+ max (6b+ obl)
Period
The wall faces south and is located at 900m. While it is ideal in spring and autumn,climbing is also possible on sunny winter days. In summer the face receives the shade early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
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