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Incantos

First ascent: Maurizio Oviglia and Fabio Erriu (April 2015)
By: Maurizio Oviglia
Area: Sardinia, Group: Supramonte, Peak: Su Accara, Ulassai, Height: 900m, Country: Italy, Region: Sardinia

Demanding stamina climbing up the yellow, often overhanging face.

ACCESS

From Ulassai to take the road towards Santa Barbara. Drive past a first lane, then a second lane with a gate. Park the car in the layby on the left, at a third lane. Follow this on foot and after 5 minutes discreetly walk through private property. At the end of the road climb over a fence and follow the path diagonally upwards towards the tower. Reach an old track. Follow this leftwards for 5 minutes to reach a giant cube of rock on the left. From here scramble upwards past cairn markers to the base of the cliff (25 minutes).

ROUTE

P1: 7a+
P2: 6b
P3: 6c+
P4: 6b+
P5: 6a

DESCENT

Abseil descent, the second being 60m into the void

GEAR

12 quickdraws and 2 x 60m ropes, helmet

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

The wall faces south and is located at 900m. While it is ideal in spring and autumn,climbing is also possible on sunny winter days. In summer the face receives the shade early in the morning or late in the afternoon.

DIFFICULTY

7a+ max (6b+ obl)

FACE

South

LENGTH

110m

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