The Corner Kick - Storpillaren - Vågakallen
Copia link
Adam Pustelnik
1 / 2
The Corner Kick
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Andreas Klarström, Adam Pustelnik 08-09/08/2014
By
Adam Pustelnik
Orientation
North
Length
900m
Route
The Corner kick is an authentic 900m big wall that follows the first 13 pitches of the route Freya (Daniela Jasper, Robert Jasper 1998) to then break off left instead of continuing up the obvious corner. Five new, difficult and dangerous pitches follow an incredible line of dihedrals through the steep headwall to then join up with Freya once again, before following Stormpillar (Louise Thomas, Mike Turner, 2004) and then the classic Storpillaren (Arild Meyer, Kjell Skog, Tore Bjørnstad, 1980) all the way to the summit of Vågakallen.
Getting there
Reach the village Kalle on the Lofoten islands. Itinerary
2-3 sets of micro nuts with offsets
1 set of standard size nuts
Cams – single set from smallest to nr.3 BD (blue)
15 quickdraws
Double 60m. rope
One bird beak left fixed on boulder start of pitch 16. Notes
If beginning slabs are wet (pitches 1-8) enter the ramp from pitch 9 via system of steep grass ledges from the left. Start in the gully where you can fill water.
Reach the village Kalle on the Lofoten islands. Itinerary
1-13. Follow Freya to pitch 13 (7-)
13. Entry pitch, 8+ (F7c+), 40m.:
Move belay 12 of Freya left to the dihedral for better rope positioning. Climb Freya for 20m. Before going right on the belay ledge climb straight up to enter the left dihedral. Just before entering the dihedral protection left on micro nuts. Belay on the slightly slabby part of the dihedral.
14. Stemming level 1, 8/8+ (F7c), 20m.:
Stem up the dihedral to a no hands niche.
15. Stemming level 2, 8+(F7c+), 30m.:
Up to the end of the dihedral, exit right to belay on top of slanting ledge.
16. Panic mode, 9- (F8a), 40m.:
Boulder stem start passed a fixed beak. Climb right under the roof to a thin crack system going up and left until a big slanting ledge belay.
17. Spooky slab pitch, 9- (F8a), 30m.:
Climb up small pillar (bit loose), continue straight up slab (possible protection on a small block right) and traverse a bit left to reach a seam just right of the arête (good protection). Climb this to the big bivy ledge to meet with pitch 22 of Freya.
18. Alternative free version of pitch 22 of Freya.
Climb the back of the niche as Freya, then traverse left and a bit down to reach good holds on the face above. Climb this to a big wide crack and go back right to meet again with Freya.
Finish with Freya to Storpillaren, and to the summit.
Gear2-3 sets of micro nuts with offsets
1 set of standard size nuts
Cams – single set from smallest to nr.3 BD (blue)
15 quickdraws
Double 60m. rope
One bird beak left fixed on boulder start of pitch 16. Notes
If beginning slabs are wet (pitches 1-8) enter the ramp from pitch 9 via system of steep grass ledges from the left. Start in the gully where you can fill water.
Comments
No comments yet...
Beauty
First ascent
Andreas Klarström, Adam Pustelnik 08-09/08/2014
By
Adam Pustelnik
Orientation
North
Length
900m
Route
Routes in the same mountain group