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Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch

First ascent: FA: Hannes Pfeifhofer, Daniel Roger, 2010. FFA: Ines Papert 17/08/2014
By: Planetmountain
Area: Dolomites, Group: Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Peak: Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Country: Italy

A superb, independent line up the lefthand side of Cima Grande, marked by its – almost always – comfortable belays. While the climb was put up in 2010 by Hannes Pfeifhofer and Daniel Roger, the first one-day ascent was carried out by Ines Papert of 17/08/2014. The second free ascent was carried out by Austria's Lisi Steurer on 28/08/2014.

GETTING THERE

The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo. These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo.

ACCESS

Approach the route by following the path from the rifugio di Lavaredo to the Forcella Lavaredo. Continue on a small track which traverses left underneath the base of the North Faces. The route starts on the left-hand side of the face, circa 10m right of Via Camillotto Pellesier.

ROUTE

P1: 8a, 30m
P2: 7c, 20m
P3: 7a+, 20m
P4: 6c+, 20m
P5: 7b, 10m
P6: 6c+, 25m
P7: 7a+, 20m
P8: 6c, 15m
P9: 7a+, 30m
P10: 7b+, 30m
P11: 6b+, 45m
P12: 6a, 30m
P13: 6b+, 30m 
P14: 6c+, 15m 
P15: 6a, 60m
P16: 6a+, 50m 
P17: 5+, 30m

DESCENT

Via the normal route on the South Face. Walk along a large ledge to the cairns that mark the normal route. Abseil down the chimney using two 50m ropes and continue by downclimbing until the scree below is reached. Follow the cairn markers leftwards, until a short abseil leads close to a saddle. Reach the saddle (Southeast Face) and steep, east facing gully; this can abseiled or downclimbed (UIAA 2). The final leap can be avoided by traversing leftwards along the ledge and reaching the gully that separates the Cima Grande from the Cima Piccola.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Summer

DIFFICULTY

8a

FACE

North

LENGTH

500m

PDF

Ohne Rauch stirbst du auch

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LINK

www.ines-papert.de

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