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Baba Jaga

First ascent: Diego Pezzoli, Alberto Gentili, Eros Milesi, Pietro Cocchetti 2013-2014
By: Diego Pezzol
Area: Bergamasque Alps and pre-Alps, Group: Alpi Orobie, Peak: Pinnacolo di Maslana, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

4 pitch aid climb up Pinnacolo di Maslana. Probably the first modern aid climb in the valleys above Bergamo in Northern Italy.

GETTING THERE

From Bergamo, follow Valle Seriana, and Valbondione, leave the car here.

ACCESS

Follow the signs that lead to Maslana along a comfortable approach.
Shortly after the picturesque village,  overcome a fountain, where I advice to bring some water,
and turn left and go up a steep trail to the base of Pinnacle. (h 1/1, 30).
Reaching the start of "Pegasus Machine" going up through the grassy shores without path and go over along the channel. Go to the start of "Bingo Bongo" and move to the left, identifying the green spit of the departure.

ROUTE

1st Pitch: (The White Knight) A2 45 mt  Climb the flake/crag with good cams, it will sound empty. At its end turn left, following the lead with a copperhead and a couple of cliff (be careful). Reach the bolt and continue to move on the cliff, several good and some not, rurp, pecker and anything else along the line that will connect more logical, like a puzzle, the few safe points. Reaching out to the rescue taproots on a comfortable terrace where to belay
Transfer: from the belay anchor of the rescue, make an easy transfer to the left till the anchor belay of “ La Fiamma “ to borrow in order to make the belay in the following pitch.

2nd  Pitch: (The Red Knight)  A2+ 35 mt  A few meters to the left of "La Fiamma" go towards a small crack dihedral. For this first part, you need to be very careful, you will use cliff, pecker, micronut and a lead or copperhead. Immediately after you put a nut and a great big pecker or piton. Continue following the small crack with pecker, pitons and cliff, then reach the bolts. From here move to the left with a beautiful climbing hooks not always good; for the rest of the pitch use a couple of pitons, pecker and always cliff. You will come to a final spit where you have to wear climbing shoes and do six or seven feet 6a unprotected.

3rd Pitch: (The Black Knight) A2+ 25 mt  Beautiful traverse. Move to the right and a little bit down with a cliff and plant a great piton, then follow the crack with nuts, friends and pitons. At its end you have to go to the next small crack with a small pendulum, put a great friend and go on pecker. From this point do some cliff to reach a dihedral that sounds of leaning, use cams with caution and reach the top with the use of hooks. Point still the last dihedral where you will find a stuck rurp and follow it to the belay

4th Pitch: (Baba Jaga)  A1 20 mt  From the anchor belay turn left and follow the cracks. We use nuts and cams up to a beautiful small crack for pecker, continue to follow it until it get larger and can put good cams. Go on a terrace covered with pines and continue for another five meters to the belay on the right with two pitons and a bolt. From here you can reach the summit with a short pitch to celebrate the ascent.

DESCENT

 4 abseils (20m) - 3 (55mt) - transfer in rappelling - 1 (40m)

NOTES

Thanks for their valuable contribution to: Eleonora Delnevo, Antonio Giudici, Davide Maida, Andrea Gnecchi, GianPietro Rodari.
Furthermore, thanks to:
Krukonogi (www.krukonogi.com) – Totemcams (www.totemcams.com) – Zamberlan (www.zamberlan.com/it ) – Climbing Technology  ( www.climbingtechnology.it )

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V 6a A2+

LENGTH

180m

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