Short alpine outing up excellent weathered limestene past runnels and small pockets. Technical, smooth slab climbing.
From Bormio (SO) continue towards Livigno, after circa 4 km take the road that leads to the two Cancano lakes. Drive past these and park at the picnic area at San Giacomo (30 min circa).
From here continue on foot or by bike for three km to the Val Mora pass, on the border with Switzerland. Enter the valley and continue for a km, leaving the bike next to the wooden logs where the path becomes more exposed and coasts the river along a scree slope. Follow the path for a few hundred metres then scramble up the scree past pine trees towards the obvious face (circa 40 minutes from the car). The first bolt is at 10m, on a compact slab on the left-hand side of the face.
P4: 6c+ (or 6b variation)
Abseil down the nearby "Gli svizzeri di qua". 4 x 30m or 2 x 60m abseils.
Half ropes recommended although one 60m single rope will suffice. take a set of wires and camming devices, highly recommended a set of microfriend (BD 000 – 2 or Alien).
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