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Mutandenbaum

First ascent: Martino Quintavalla, Cristian Martinelli, 08/2012
By: Martino Quintavalla
Area: Rhaetian Alps, Group: Livigno Alps, Peak: Parete Mora, Height: 2300m, Region: Canton Grigioni

Short alpine outing up excellent weathered limestene past runnels and small pockets. Technical, smooth slab climbing.

GETTING THERE

From Bormio (SO) continue towards Livigno, after circa 4 km take the road that leads to the two Cancano lakes. Drive past these and park at the picnic area at San Giacomo (30 min circa). 

ACCESS

From here continue on foot or by bike for three km to the Val Mora pass, on the border with Switzerland. Enter the valley and continue for a km, leaving the bike next to the wooden logs where the path becomes more exposed and coasts the river along a scree slope. Follow the path for a few hundred metres then scramble up the scree past pine trees towards the obvious face (circa 40 minutes from the car). The first bolt is at 10m, on a compact slab on the left-hand side of the face.

ROUTE

P1: 6b+
P2: 6a
P3: 6a
P4: 6c+ (or 6b variation)
P5: 5b

DESCENT

Abseil down the nearby "Gli svizzeri di qua". 4 x 30m or 2 x 60m abseils.

GEAR

Half ropes recommended although one 60m single rope will suffice. take a set of wires and camming devices, highly recommended a set of microfriend (BD 000 – 2 or Alien).

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BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

6c+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6c

FACE

NW

LINK ZONE

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