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Gli svizzeri di qua

First ascent: Martino Quintavalla, Margherita Quintavalla, 08/2006
By: Martino Quintavalla
Area: Rhaetian Alps, Group: Livigno Alps, Peak: Parete Mora, Height: 2300m, Region: Canton Grigioni

Short modern sports route up excellent weathered limestone, past runnels and small pockets. Established ground-up over two days, the route offers technical climbing through an overhang on pitch 1, followed by technical slab climbing on the remaining pitches. The 10mm bolts are at times very run-out, past 7a+ obligatory climbing. The crux pitch is the last one. The route is located at 2300m, faces NW and receives the sun in the early afternoon. It's cold up there, so the best time to climb is from July to September.

GETTING THERE

From Bormio (SO) continue towards Livigno, after circa 4 km take the road that leads to the two Cancano lakes. Drive past these and park at the picnic area at San Giacomo (30 min circa). 

ACCESS

From here continue on foot or by bike for three km to the Val Mora pass, on the border with Switzerland. Enter the valley and continue for a km, leaving the bike next to the wooden logs where the path becomes more exposed and coasts the river along a scree slope. Follow the path for a few hundred metres then scramble up the scree past pine trees towards the obvious face (circa 40 minutes from the car). The first bolt is at 10m, below and lip at the bottom of the overhangs.

ROUTE

P1: 7b
P2: 6b
P3: 6a
P4: 7a+

DESCENT

Abseil down the route with 4 x 30m or 2 x 60m abseils. The belays are equipped with carabiners for the abseil.

GEAR

The route can be climbed with a 60m single ropes. Take 10 quickdraws and some mid-sized Friends for pitch 2. The other pitches don't take other pro.

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DIFFICULTY

7b

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a+

FACE

NW

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