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NoWork Team

First ascent: Daniele Macagno, Enrico Turnaturi 08/2013
By: Daniele Macagno & Enrico Turnaturi
Area: Western Alps, Group: Ligurian Alps, Peak: Parete del Cabanaira, Height: 2000m, Country: Italy, Region: Piemonte

Climbed ground-up by the mountain guides Daniele Macagno and Enrico Turnaturi in summer 2013. While not particularly long, the climbing is fairly demanding and the rock is almost always superb. Another plus point is the short approach: if the road that leads to Baita 2000 is free from snow you only need to walk for 5 minutes. The route faces NNW and, given the 2000m altitude, is ideal on sultry summer days.

GETTING THERE

From Limone take the SS20 towards Col di Tenda, turn off left before reaching the tunnel at 1400m and continue to the col (baita le Marmotte), take the dirt track to Baita 2000 (the one that leads off left from Marmotte, "Limone Monesi") to right below the rock face. Park in the lay-by and scramble to the base of the route.

ROUTE

P1: 7a+
P2: 7a
P3: 6a+
P4: 7a+
P5: 6c

DESCENT

Abseil down the route

GEAR

The pitches have been equipped with 8mm bolts while the belays are equipped with 10mm bolts (and maillon rapide for the abseil).

NOTES

The last pitch requires some cleaning.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7a+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6c

FACE

NNW

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