Le non-sens et la joie
A beautiful steep route on orange granite, mainly on gear (14 bolts total). Exposed and sustained climbing on slopers and cracks. Comfortable belays after pitch 3 (P3). The route can be linked with the original classic Enterre mon coeur to top out (450m of climbing).
First ascent : Jeff Arnoldi and Arnaud Petit in three days of march 2014, finishing the job started by Arnaud and Stéphanie Bodet in October 2013 (P1 and P2). The route has not been freed yet. The grades given a possibly soft.
This is the third route up the West face of the Cascionu, after Enterre mon cœur (1990-1994, a bold incursion initiated by Jean Toussaint Casanova and Pierre Pietri) and Syncope (by a crew led by Vlado Linski in 2007-2008). To the right of the main wall is also A Ringrazia by Jeff Andreucci, Estelle Bord and Carlos Ascensao.
The finish through Enterre mon cœur is highly recommended, featuring a great 50m 7a+ (although the presence of numerous rusty bolts next to welcoming cracks can be disturbing) and a satisfying finish to the summit (cf. the excellent French/English Guide « Grandes Voies Corses » ). We have changed the belays to allow a safe retreat and a convenient way down.
Acknowledgments: Agnès Leclerc, Morgane Choquet and Guillaume Touzet for helping us carrying our gear, Thierry Souchard (breakfast, beers, cheese) Vlado Linsky (ideas for future ascents and directions to his near-by newly developed sport climbing wall), Pierre Pietri (for suggesting this wall to Arnaud, 20 years ago).
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