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Célébration du Lézard

By: Maurizio Oviglia
Area: Corsica, Group: Bavella, Peak: Punta A Biciartula, Country: France, Region: Corsica

A little gem, a true masterpiece of Mediterranean granite sport climbing. 

ACCESS

From Col du Bavella drive past the Arza forest house and cross the Renaju bridge. Continue for another 200m and park on the left on the old road. Walk into the forest following the path that leads up to the rocks. Exit the forest and traverse left towards a gully, ascend this and reach the base of the face. On the left there is an obvious gully with water (45 minutes).

ROUTE

P1: 5c
P2: 6a
P3: 6c
P4: 6a+
P5: 6c
P6: 7a
P7: 5b

DESCENT

From the summit reach the first abseil in a nicht, on the left and above the void looking at Punta Rossa (the exit of Kalliste). Make a 45m abseil into the void to reach the gully. Scramble down this with care to reach another anchor. Another 40m abseil leads to another gully that borders above the face. Down climb this to the wedged block which is breached via a 20m abseil. Down climb easily to the base of the face.

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

Bavedda, Jean Louis Fenouil and Jean Paul Quilici, FFME, 2010

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PERIOD

Spring, autumn

DIFFICULTY

7a

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