Escalador Selvatico - Akopan Tepui
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Maurizio Oviglia
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Escalador Selvatico
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi, Maurizio Oviglia, end of Jan, start of Feb 2014, in 7 days, 2 bivies. FFA: Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi, 8/2/2014
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
North
Length
630m
Difficulty
7c+
Obligatory difficulty
7a+
Route
Fantastic climbing in a unique environment, very continuous all the way to the summit. The route requires great stamina if climbed in a single day. The crux pitch is located almost right at the end of the route. Excellent bivy ledge half-way up pitch 12. Excellent rock, cleaned by the first ascentionists along the entire route, including the "jungle", except for the final metres which need to be breached "Tarzan" style.
Getting there
Reach Yunek. From Yunek 3.5 hours on foot through the savana and jungle. From ABC 1.5 hours. Descent
36 bolts along the pitches + belays. Take 2 sets of Totem cams or BD to # 2BD, triple sets of small sizes. Microfriends and small nuts useful, slings
Reach Yunek. From Yunek 3.5 hours on foot through the savana and jungle. From ABC 1.5 hours. Descent
The face overhangs at least 50m, the abseils are complicated (follow the topo instructions), Friends need to be clipped during the descent to remain close to the face. The final two abseils lead away from the route.
Gear36 bolts along the pitches + belays. Take 2 sets of Totem cams or BD to # 2BD, triple sets of small sizes. Microfriends and small nuts useful, slings
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Beauty
First ascent
Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi, Maurizio Oviglia, end of Jan, start of Feb 2014, in 7 days, 2 bivies. FFA: Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi, 8/2/2014
By
Maurizio Oviglia
Orientation
North
Length
630m
Difficulty
7c+
Obligatory difficulty
7a+
Route
Routes in the same mountain group
Related news
20/02/2014 - Climbing
Escalador Selvatico, new climb up Acopan Tepui in Venezuela by Larcher, Oviglia and Giupponi At the end of January and the start of February 2014 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi made the first ascent, and first free ascent, of Escalador Selvatico (7c+...