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La Scala del Cielo

First ascent: Eraldo Meraldi, Enrico Prinster, 10/2013
By: Eraldo Meraldi
Area: Rhaetian Alps, Group: Livigno Alps, Peak: Monte Scale - Torri di Fraele, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

Pleasant easy route up weathered rock that climbs compact slabs, corners and short walls. Set in a unique and impressive ambient, this route has been equipped and carefully cleaned and is ideal for beginners.

GETTING THERE

From Bormio head towards Valdidentro, follow the Cancano paved road that leads to the characteristics Fraele Towers. When you reach the 11th hairpin after Piana di Prada, head slightly downhill along the dirt road on the right to quickly reach the large car park (20 minutes).

ACCESS

From the car park take the path that leads to the base of the obvious gully, past a ravine and its well-preserved kitchen used at the start of the last century while the intricate network of tunnels were built for the hydroelectric system at the Cancano Lakes (5 minutes).

ROUTE

P1: 5b, 30m
P2: 5a, 35m
P3: 3c, 22m
P4: 5a, 28m
P5: 4c, 27m
P6: 5c, 18m

DESCENT

Take the Scale path the the base of the Cancano crag. From here walk along either the road or the steep scree path to return to the start.

GEAR

10 quickdraws, gear for belays, helmet.

NOTES

41 10mm stainless steel bolts placed along the route + 10 at the belays.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

5c

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

4c

FACE

South

LENGTH

160m

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LINK

www.guidealpinealtavaltellina.it

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