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Quintoppiù

First ascent: Massimiliano Celano, Tiziano Marchetti, 09/2011. FFA: Adriano Trombetta, Aziz
By: Massimiliano Celano
Area: Graian Alps, Group: Valle Orco, Peak: Altrolato, Height: 1300m, Country: Italy, Region: Piedmont

Beautiful climb, exposed, with some great moves. Rock still needs cleaning in sections.

ACCESS

Coming from Noasca and heading towards Ceresole, before reaching the tunnel turn off left and stop before the bridge that leads to Borgata Pian. Cross the bridge and then take the track to the right, the paved one that leads up to the face. reach the first cairn quickly and follow these up steep ground to reach the base of the face. "Quintoppiù and "Duel" are reached in 30 minutes. If there is no water in the river this can be crossed everywhere, alternatively used the insitu rope fixed beneath a large boulder.

ROUTE

P1: Obvious crack, hard and overhanging right from the outset. At the end of this head left up the dülfer layback. 25m 6b, 1 bolt (belay 1 bolt  + bd 1)
P2: Obvious crack, then difficult entrance into the overhanging corner, followed by difficult moves to reach the belay on the left (beware the dubious boulder at the end) 25m, 6c (1 peg + 4 bolts)
P3: Descend 1 metre to reach the first bolt, then the climbing become more difficult; a Friend 000 might help but... traverse right and easily exit onto slab to belay on comfortable ledge, 1 bolt + bd 0.75, 20m, 6c, 1 peg + 4 bolts
P4: Cracked roofs lead to a smooth corner: the final 4 metres are difficult, exit left onto arete to reach belay. 20m, 7a+ (1 peg + 4 bolts)

DESCENT

Abseil down the route. The first abseil leads to the3rd belay, from here move right for 5m for the second abseil, 35m into the void to reeach the base of the cliff.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7a+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6a

FACE

West

LENGTH

100m

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