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I sogni di Baku

First ascent: Sibilla Bariani, Gianni Tomasoni 2-13/08/2013
By: Gianni Tomasoni
Area: Rhaetian Alps, Group: Adamello - Presanella, Peak: Corno Gioià, Height: 3050m, Country: Italy, Region: Lombardy

Opened ground-up, the new route I sogni di Baku  - Baku's dreams - is a demanding climb in a grandiose and solitary setting. The route breaches the compact granite slabs and vertical cracked corners to reach the red summit tower.

Despite being equipped with pegs and bolts, the route should not be considered modern climb; you really do need how to place natural pro and, given its setting and long approach, is recommend to competent alpine parties.

The route was climbed in memory of Rocco Belingheri.

GETTING THERE

Val Adamè can be reached from Brescia or Bergamo via Valcamonica. Reach the village Cedegolo and turn off right at the fork for Valle and Fresine. After the village of Valle reach the hamlet La Rasega, then take the road up past a series of hairpin bends to Malga Lincino (park at the cable car).

ROUTE

P1: V + 55m
P2: VII 55m
P3: V+ 45m
P4: V+ 35m
P5: VI+ 35m
P6: VI+ 30m
P7: VI 25m
P8: VI+ 20m

DESCENT

Abseil down the line of ascent (see topo)

GEAR

Full mountain rack. 10 quickdraws, a set of Friends from Micro - 3 B.D., 2 x 60m ropes. Belays with two bolts, 8mm and 10mm with maillon rapide for the abseils. 8mm bolts and pegs in-situ on the pitches.

NOTES

Thanks to the volunteers at Baita Adame' who helped us with their logistical support. And thanks to our friend Roby for the gear he kindly provided.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

From July to September

DIFFICULTY

TD+ VII max. R2+/III

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

VI+

FACE

SE

LENGTH

300m

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Recent Comments
  • Tovaric
    Via stupenda, gradi stretti e numerosi passaggi obbligatori, ...
    2013-12-16 / MICHELE LUCCHINI
  • Don Quixote
    Che dire di questa stupenda via......quando l'ho ripetuta er ...
    2013-12-01 / moreno rossini
  • Re Artù
    semplicemente fantastica,da divertirsi andate a farla. solo ...
    2013-11-24 / moreno rossini
  • La Salvana
    bella via di media difficoltá con in realtá pochi spit ma ...
    2013-09-28 / Armin Craffonara