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Das Orakel

First ascent: Simon Gietl & Patrick Seiwald 2012. FFA: 07/2013
By: Simon Gietl
Area: Dolomites, Group: Fanis, Peak: Lagazuoi Nord, Country: Italy, Region: Veneto

The route was established in spring 2012 during five days of efforts. Climbing ground-up, Simon Gietl and Patrick Seiwald spent two days getting past the crux and had to resort to A3 aid. The first free ascent was carried out in July 2013 and Gietl describes the route as follows: "where the route climbs dark streaks the rock is excellent quality, whereas the yellow areas are somewhat brittle. Overall the climb is extremely beautiful but demanding, both physically and mentally."

ACCESS

From Passo Falzarego take the cable car and follow the path 20b for 40 minutes to reach the base of the face. The route starts circa 70m to the left of Via del Drago.

DESCENT

From the summit make one abseil, then follo the ledge left and scramble down the gully (UIAA I – II). Reach the war path and scramble down the scree to reach the base.

GEAR

All pegs were left in-situ. Take a set of Friends, nuts, and possibly a hammer and pegs.

NOTES

No bolts.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

IX

FACE

North

LENGTH

320m

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