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Atlantis

First ascent: First free ascent: Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt, 1981
By: Michael Lerjen, Mountain Guide
Area: U.S.A., Group: The Needles, Peak: The Sorcerer, Country: USA, Region: California

Atlantis was first freed in 1981 by Tony Yaniro & Randy Leavitt and that says it all. Maybe on of the best lines of its grade! Atlantis has everything, from straight jamming to liebacks, and some balancy face moves. Sometimes even a cool head is helpful!

ACCESS

From the campsite, follow the dirt road to its end, after 45 minutes the Magician springs into view from the lookout. Walk to the start of the iron steps and a post; head left down III class terrain following cairn markers to reach the base of The Witch. Leave everything you don't need for the climb here, then scramble down the obvious steep gully between Charlatan and Sorcerer for 200m, then head right and continue climbing up to the ledge under the East Face. From here take the obvious dihedral that goes to the right! Leave everything you don't need here at the base!

ROUTE

P1: 5.10c, 30m: Start with some fingercrak moves until the crack gets bigger, and transforms into in lieback. After a rest follow the left leaning crack to the top to a bolted belay
P2: 5.10a, 25m: Some balancy face moves take you left to place some gear, from there make a few interesting moves straight up to reach the next crack system. Follow this and then traverse right to a bolted belay.
P3: 5.11c 25m: Place some good gear up high, then tackle the layback. A few hard moves lead to a good rest and some more gear. Climb past a sloper to then follow the amazing handcrack to reach a ledge on the right and a bolted belay
P4: 5.11a 30m: Move back left and go straight up past some balance moves to a fixed stopper, make a few moves (11a) around a corner then head straight up. Here there are 2 options 5.10a left, 5,11a straight up. Tree belay
P5: Easy scramble to the the amazing summit

DESCENT

Climb back from the top to the ledge, on the right above the slabs is a belay with a chain, from here rappel straight down. Another belay is located on the right, a 60m rappel leads to the base. Scramble back up the approach

NOTES

This great line gets the shade around 1 pm!

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

5.11c

FACE

East

LENGTH

110m

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