Home page Planetmountain.com

arrowRock arrowRoutes arrowStrike

Strike

First ascent: Beppe Domenichelli, Corrado Pibiri and Bruno Poddesu, April 1980. Final three pitches to the top: Maurizio Oviglia and Corrado Pibiri, 31/05/2013
By: Maurizio Oviglia
Area: Sardinia, Group: Perda asub e pari - Garibaldi, Peak: Perda asub 'e pari - Garibaldi, Country: Italy, Region: Sardinia

Perda asub 'e pari (also known as Garibaldi) literally means "One stone above the other" is a truly surprising granite peak! Inside there is a maze of tunnels which lead from one side of the mountain to the other. On 31 May 2013, 33 years after the first ascent by Beppe Domenichelli, Corrado Pibiri and Bruno Poddesu, Maurizio Oviglia and Corrado Pibiri completed this historic and incredible route in Southern Sardinia. A strange and amazing line: every pitch is different and it holds plenty of surprises in store.

GETTING THERE

From Cagliari take the SS125 for about 30 km to Arcu Neridu. Turn off right, then left after the forest warden building. Continue along the dirt road and park where the road ends at Maidopis.

ACCESS

Follow a path to the left of the bar that crosses the road, heading towards the building. When almost above this take a small path that leads level and then passes beneath a giant boulder. Continue leftwards downhill to reach the base of the wall (25 minutes from the car).

ROUTE

To the left of the large corner which splits the face there is a bolted crack up clean rock, a variation called "Nonno Fabio" (route name at the base) while the original start lies to the left.
1) Climb the beautiful crack (possible greenpoint, in complete safety, with Friends) to the belay, 6a+.
2) Climb up brown corner to the thread, then gain the slab via a difficult move protected by a "historic" bolt. Climb the corner (fist-crack, protected by Friend #4 and an old wedge) to reach a terrace. Climb left briefly to reach a cave. Belay #2, 6a+. From here you can enter the mountain and exit the other side and walk down on foot along the path (!).
3) Continue up the corner until the crack splits. Difficult 6b moves to the right protected by two bolts, or rounded 6a+ crack on the left. Reach the large ledge and third belay, where the original route ended. (6b)
4) Move easily left into a cave formed by the giant resting slab (sometimes a hermit lives here), Belay #4.
5) Bridge up to reach a wide crack. Grab a massive hold, now in the dark bowels of the mountain, and head towards the light. Exit the lower two holes to reach belay # 5 (6a+).
6) Battle up the hard bolted slab, traverse left but at the last bolt climb towards the final boulder to reach the hole. Enter this and exit the other side. Tree belay #6 on a granite plattform (6c/6c+).
7) Avoid the original finish of Piccioni Poddesu with old bolt (6a+) and belay #7 below the leaning slab.
8) Somehow manage to climb up and into the chimney which narrows down into a funnel. Crawl you way up the offwidth (bolts) to grab a good hold and get established on the slab. Ascend this ultra-panoramic final section to reach the top (6b+)

DESCENT

From the summit make a first abseil to the tree. From here descend righwards down the N Face via a second abseil to reach a path and from here return to the base in 5 minutes (tree makers). Alternatively, make two abseils down the W Face off stances just below the seventh belay.

GEAR

The route is partially protected with bolts. Take a full set of Friends to #4, slings, a 70m rope is sufficient and trainers for a quick descent down the N Face.

Share this page

COMMENTS for the route "Strike"

No comments found for Strike

Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

6c

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6a+

LENGTH

155m

LINK ZONE

Read main article

VOTES / itinerary
USERS VOTE:
stella stella stella stella stella
Vote the itinerary
COMMENT / itinerary

PERSONAL AREA

Add your email and password:

Username:

Password:


SEARCH routes

GROUP

Peak

Route

More itineraries
  • Strike
    Strike
    Sardinia, Perda asub e pari - Garibaldi
EXPO / Products
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.
FORUM
CLASSIFIEDS
Recent Comments
  • Campanile di Val Montanaia - Via Normale
    Per precisazione:"la sosta a spit" si incontra sul secondo t ...
    2014-10-20 / francesco gherlenda
  • Evergreen
    Ho salito la via questa estate e naturalmente ci siamo conge ...
    2014-10-20 / francesco gherlenda
  • Rataplan
    Ripetizione del 20.09.2014L1 6c bella fessura non banale pe ...
    2014-09-23 / oscar meloni
  • Via Paola
    ripetuta per la quarta volta, mi sento di proporre questi gr ...
    2014-09-01 / Niccol%C3%B2 Antonello