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Figli del Vento

First ascent: Alessandro Beber, Peter Moser 04/2012
By: Alessandro Beber
Area: Brescia and Garda pre-Alps, Group: Valle del Sarca, Peak: Rupe di Santa Massenza (Rupe di Fraveggio), Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Pleasant rock climb Valle dei Laghi established ground-up by Peter Moser and Alessandro Beber in April 2012 and then freed by the first ascentionists. "During the ground-up first ascent we used some trad gear (some small and mid-sized friends) but when we finished the route we decided to add some bolts to render the run-outs more homogeneous. Now only 10 quickdraws are needed to repeat the route. The first pitch was subsequently bolted from above, too, to avoid the difficult sideways approach from the forest."

ACCESS

From the square in Fraveggio reach the base of the cliff in 10 - 15 minutes. The route starts circa 30m to the right of Dorian Gray (plaque at the base).

ROUTE

P1: 5c
P2: 6c
P3: 6c
P4: 7a
P5: 7a+
P6: 7b+

DESCENT

Either abseil down the route (clip some bolts on the last two overhanging pitches) or descent on foot: scramble up into the forest and traverse left to reach the Scal path that leads back down to the village.

GEAR

Two 60m ropes, 10 quickdraws.

NOTES

Thanks to Climbing Technology, Millet and Scarpa.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7b+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6c+

LENGTH

180m

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LINK

www.alessandrobeber.com

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