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Saga di Valle Bavona

First ascent: Thomas Wolf, Stephan Isensee 01/02/09/2012. FFA: Wolf 03/09/2012
By: Thomas Wolf
Area: Swiss Alps, Group: Lepontine Alps, Peak: Gendarm de Gramüsèd, Country: Switzerland, Region: Ticino

205m high climb established by Stephan Isensee and Thomas Wolf up Gendarm de Gramüsèd, to the left of Il mito della Caverna with difficulties in the region of 7c+/8a.

GETTING THERE

The Gendarm de Gramüsèd is situated approximately 3 km west of Bignasco. Enter the Valle Bavone from Bignasco and drive till you see the wall clearly on the left. There is only one brige you can pass the river with the car. (Water-power-plant). There you can park.

ACCESS

From the bridge follow a steep dry riverbed (from melting water) straight uphill until it gets to steep (15-20 minutes). Then go 50m rigth uphill along a wall till you see some fix ropes traversing along some ledges. After the ropes walk sidewards (North-West) till you reach the base of the wall. (30 minutes from the car)

ROUTE

P1: 6a+, 35m
P2: 6b, 18m
P3: 6c+, 35m
P4: 6b, 20m
P5: 7b, 32m
P6: 7c+/8a, 35m
P7: 6b, 30m

DESCENT

Rappel the route. In pitch 5 and pitch 6 some bolts have to be clipped to reach the belay.

GEAR

12 draws, Metolius Mastercams 0-6 , Camelot C4 #2 for the end of pitch 3 (optional another #2 Camelot for the same pitch). Minimum 2 x 50 m ropes or one (70 m rope is just long enough)

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

8a+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a

FACE

NE

LENGTH

205m

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Saga di Valle Bavona

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LINK

www.kayakandclimb.blogspot.de

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