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Le Vrai Plaisir - (Pampers)

First ascent: Gianni Canale, Aldo Mazzotti & Franco Cavallaro 2011
By: Gianni Canale
Area: Brescia and Garda pre-Alps, Group: Valle del Sarca, Peak: Piccolo Dain, Height: 967m, Country: Italy, Region: Trentino - Alto Adige

Sustained and difficult multi-pitch sport climb up always excellent rock, established ground-up. The difficulty of the route, apart from its sustained nature, is given by the fact that the hardest two pitches are located right at the end. All belays are equipped with twin-bolts and abseil ring. Given the long run-outs, the route is considered very exposed.

GETTING THERE

From Trento or Arco drive to the town Sarche located at the foot of Mt. Dain. From Sarche park at Bocciodromo. Follow the path as for the Via Ferrata Rino Pisetta and at the fork bear left towards Ranzo. At the ned of the stepped ferrata ascend diagonally right, following the tracks to reach the fixed ropes. Ascend these to reach the first belay of via Direttissima. (30 min).

ACCESS

Start up grey, compact rock to the right of the first belay of Via Direttissima.

ROUTE

P1: 6b, 30m, 3 bolts
P2: 7a, 60m, 12 bolts
P3: 7a, 40m, 5 bolts
P4: 7a+, 25m, 3 bolts
P5: 7a+, 55m, 8 bolts
P6: 7c+  , 50m, 10 bolts
P7: 6b, 20m, 3 bolts
P8: 7b+/7c, 40 m, 7 bolts
P9: 7a, 25m, 4 bolts
P10: 8a, 40m, 6 bolts
P11: 8a+, 30m, 7 bolts
P12: 5b, 15m, 2 bolts

DESCENT

Scramble up into the wood, traverse left and reach the obvious track which descends west. Reach the top of Via Loss and the descent which is used by all other routes (45 minutes).

GEAR

12 quickdraws, two 60m ropes.

NOTES

All pitches have been freed individually, at present the first one-day redpoint ascent is missing.

Thanks to: Fabio Leoni (Vertical) for having partly sponsored this climb with fear and the Mountain Guide Diego Filippi who allowed us to move the first 4m of the final pitch of his aid route Via Direttissima to leave room for our stupendous final pitch.

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COMMENTS for the route "Le Vrai Plaisir - (Pampers)"

16-06-2012, Rolando Larcher
13 giugno 2012 1° Rotpunkt integrale da capocordata, assieme a Herman Zanetti, in 9 ore di parete. Via impegnativa e scabrosa. La roccia alterna tratti belli ad altri mediocri, migliorabili con la pulizia. Un elogio al coraggio degli apritori, concentrati però esclusivamente nel distanziare gli spit, a scapito della pulizia ed alla logicità della linea delle protezioni. Come obbligatorio proporrei un 7b expo. Fino al 6° tiro confermo i gradi, il 7° lo darei 6b+, l'8° 7c, il 9° 7a+, il 10° rimane 8a ma attenzione alle gambe ed al compagno!!! L'11° 7c+ Rolando Larcher
Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

8a+

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7c S3/III EXPO

FACE

South

LENGTH

425m

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Le Vrai Plaisir - (Pampers)

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