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Fuga dal Munzur

First ascent: G. Rosada, M. Sterni, S. Zaleri 30/08/2011
By: Stefano Zaleri
Area: Anatolia, Group: Munzur Dağlari, Peak: Terza Lacrima - Üçüncü gözyaşı, Height: 2175m, Country: Turkey

The route climbs weathered slabs up excellent rock and offers good protection throughout. The 11 pitches (+ 150m grade II and III scramble) were established in 7 hours.


From Ovacik take the gravel road NE, coasting the mountains for 10.5km to reach a hairpin bend by a bridge at the start of the Arami canyon. Follow the path towards the canyon, walk past the forest and enter the canyon to walk up the river bed. TIn the upper section the path zig-zags to the left and the right of the river. The Tre Lacrime spring into view and the Terza Lacrima, the third teardrop, is the one on the left. Reach the base by following the track and up the slabs (1.30 - 2 hours)


From the summit scramble down southwards for circa 100m to reach the scree. Follow this and head to Arami canyon. Reach the river bed and return along the path used for the approach. (2 hours)


Pegs and camming devices (4 in-situ pegs)

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565m / 11 pitches + 150m scramble grade II & III

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