Established over 11 days in September 2011, Hungarob Combination offers extremely varied climbing: steep slabs, vertical face climbing, cracks, terrible friction slabs, off-widths, chimneys... everything!
Hungarob Combination is located on the left-hand side of Orabeswall, following straight up the black stripe up to the buttress. Past the buttress, a crack and dihedral will lead you to a vertical wall where a black stripe is found again (crux pitch). Following a corner system, you will reach the top towards the right. This is a well bolted mixed route which can be climbed with a single rack if comfortable with the grade or by adding doubles 0.5-4 if more conservative. Enjoy!
* For gear lovers, the start of Pitch 1b & 2b variations is found 100m right of the origina lroute beneath a small chimney
Pitch 1: 22 m, 6a, 5 bolts. Starts where the big chimney from the westpillar reach the bottom. Follow the bolts.
Pitch 1b: 28m, 5a, 1 bolt. Start by using the easy ramp or chimney to a ledge (1b), follow the crack to the fixed belay.
Pitch 2: 42m, 5c, 8 bolts Follow the bolts to a fixed belay.
Pitch 2b: 52m, 5b, 1 bolt. Follow the crack to the 2nd belay of the original route.
Pitch 3: 42m, 5b, 4 bolts. Follow the bolts to a fixed belay.
Pitch 4: 20m, 6b+, 4 bolts. Straight up to a crack which leads to a fixed belay.
Pitch 5: 40m, 6c+, 4 bolts. From the belay, left to the first crack using a bolt. Follow this this crack until it reach the level
of a small ledge at the left crack. Left traverse to and up the dihedral (2b) to a roof (C4 #5). Left traverse again (1b) to an easy corner and ledge to belay.
Pitch 6: 32m, approx. 7c R, (or using #0.3 to avoid runout), 12 bolts. Complex technical wall with dynamic longreach move in the middle. Followed again by a technical wall and enduring runout.
Pitch 7: 17m, 6a, 2 bolts. Straight from the belay,follow the Crack slightly to the right using a slab (2B) to belay.
Pitch 8: 46m, 6a+, 12 bolts. Follows the bolts, after 20m slightly to the left to the belay up to where an offwidth crack coming from the left.
Pitch 9: 42m, 6a+, 2 bolts. STRAIGHT up (C4 1 & 3 into holes) to a bolt followed by a slab to second bolt at the beginning of a huge crack (Cam 6) leading to the right.
Pitch 10: 40m, 6c, 1 bolt. Continues right using the big crack/ corner. One bolt after 20m visible.
Pitch 11: 25m, 2a. Reach the ledge above the belay and walk to the left to rappelstation! And, not to pass, the easy scramble to the summit!
First rappel slightly to the left to Pitch 9 belay station, then rappel the route. Pitches 6 and 7 can be linked together.
12 quickdraws, C3 .00-C4 6 (C4 0.5-4 x2) & 2x 50m, all belays fixed
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