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Wings for Life

First ascent: Peter Keller, Urs Odermatt 10/04/2008
By: Planetmountain
Area: Greece, Group: Kalymnos, Peak: Telendos, Country: Greece, Region: Dodecanese

Fantastic multi-pitch sport climb established by the Swiss climbers Urs Odermatt and Peter Keller in April 2008 immediately to the right of the massive roof, also known as The Sleeping Princess Cave. This "plaisir" outing was the first route up the wall and although it tackles some extremely exposed climbing on the upper section, it surprisingly never exceeds 5c!

GETTING THERE

From Kalymnos reach Telendos. From the village follow the trail to Crystal Cave (1,5 hours). Alternatively, you can take a boat to the nearest point below the cliff and walk straight uphill for ‘only’ 30 minutes. To hire a boat call Captain Yiannis (tel. +30-694-481-9073).

ACCESS

The route starts circa 250m to the right of Wild Country.

ROUTE

P1: 5a, 20m
P2: 5b, 30m
P3: 5b, 10m
P4: 4b, 30m
P5: 4c, 20m
P6: 5b, 20m
P7: 5c, 30m
P8: 5b, 20m
P9: 5c, 20m
P10: 5b, 20m
P11: 5a, 30m

DESCENT

Anywhere between 1 hour and an all-night epic! After you complete the route, keep walking until you reach the highest point of the island. Descend from the other side (north), passing by the chapel of Agios Konstantinos. Follow the cairns at first; then, at the chapel, the trail becomes clearer as it leads back to the village of Telendos. Alternatively, you can ask Captain Yiannis ahead of time when he will be making the Telendos – Irox route, and catch the boat on its way back (usually at 17:00 or 19:00, but best to check with him; for his number, see above)

GEAR

15 quickdraws, slings

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

5c

FACE

South

LENGTH

220m

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Wings for Life

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LINK

www.eisklettern.ch

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