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De rerum natura

First ascent: Rolando Larcher & Maurizio Oviglia 13-14/04/2010. RP 16/04/2010
By: Rolando Larcher
Area: Corsica, Group: Bavella, Peak: Punta U Corbu, Height: 1157m, Country: France, Region: Corsica

Fantastic climbing up pumpy, overhanging cracks on stupendous granite. Acrobatic descent, clip some friends during the abseils to keep close to the rock face.

GETTING THERE

From Solenzara take the road towards Col di Bavella. After Bocca di Larone (608 m), the view opens onto the beautiful granite towers. Continue to the bridge at  Polischellu and park the car circa 300m further in a layby on the left. 

ACCESS

Opposite the layby there is a recently tracked path. Follow this for 20 minutes until his descends to the river, after having past a narrow ledge. Wade through the river and ascend the opposite slabs (Grade II, slippery when wet). From here follow the cairs to beneath the route Jeef, then continue as best possible up the gully to reach the base of the wall, circa 50m beneath Delicatessen (1.15 hours from the car).

ROUTE

P1: 6c+
P2: 6b+
P3: 7c
P4: 7c
P5: 6b+
P6: 6b/c
P7: 6c

DESCENT

Acrobatic descent, clip some friends during the abseils to keep close to the rock face

GEAR

13 spit + belays. Take 2 sets of camming devices up to 3 + 4 BD. Two 60m ropes.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7c

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

7a obl/RS2+/II

FACE

South

LENGTH

230m

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www.pietradiluna.com

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Recent Comments
  • Tovaric
    Via stupenda, gradi stretti e numerosi passaggi obbligatori, ...
    2013-12-16 / MICHELE LUCCHINI
  • Don Quixote
    Che dire di questa stupenda via......quando l'ho ripetuta er ...
    2013-12-01 / moreno rossini
  • Re Artù
    semplicemente fantastica,da divertirsi andate a farla. solo ...
    2013-11-24 / moreno rossini
  • La Salvana
    bella via di media difficoltá con in realtá pochi spit ma ...
    2013-09-28 / Armin Craffonara