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Hundert Wasser

First ascent: Reinhold Scherer & Dieter Stöhr 09/2009
By: Planetmountain
Area: North Tyrol Limestone Alps, Group: Karwendelgebirge, Peak: Große Speckkarplatte, Karwendel, Country: Austria, Region: Tyrol

One of the most beautiful, photogenic and original routes of its grade in the entire Karwendel. A system of corners and cracks leads from left to right straight through a completely smooth slab, unparalleled in terms of rock quality and beauty. The route starts with a very demanding crack which leads to a steep stemming flake and a 40m traverse which leads to crack system through the smooth wall. The second pitch is the jewel in the crown: a 60m super abrasive vertical water runnel , the size of a gutter. Quite simply unbelievable!

GETTING THERE

From Innsbruck drive to Hall in Tirol.

ACCESS

Two options.
A. Drive through the Halltall (4€ toll) and over Lafatscher Joch towards the Hallerangerhaus, circa 2 hours. Fit cyclists can cycle to just beneath the col. This doesn't reduce the walk-in much, but during the (very demanding) descent one saves 45 minutes.
B. Cycle from Scharnitz (4€ parking) over the Hinterautal, past the Kastenalm to the Hallerangerhaus. Most push their bikes along the steep ascent to the Kastenalm. Although this approach is longer (at least 2.5 hours), the return is simple and takes circa 45 - 60 minutes.
The Große Speckkarplatte can be seen east of the Hallerangerhaus mountain hut and is reached in circa 15 minutes.

ROUTE

P1: 7a (30m)
P2: 6a+ (30m)
P3: 6c+ (40 m)
P4: 6c+ (30m)
P5: 7a (35 m)
P6: 5a (35 m)

DESCENT

Abseil down the route. Please do not remove the abseil carabiners.

GEAR

11 quickdraws, 70m single rope for the abseil

NOTES

The first pitch is shared with the David Lama project, which then breaks off left through the smooth wall.
Beware: the final pitch is still a bit loose, dangerous and therefore not recommended, since the belay is directly above the climber. In future the first ascentionists plan to complete the route to the top and clear all the loose boulders.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

July - September

DIFFICULTY

7a

FACE

North

LENGTH

200m

LINK ZONE

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LINK

www.kletterzentrum-tivoli.at

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