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El Gringo Loco

First ascent: A. Guinet, 1998
By: Davide Crescenzio, Mountain Guide
Area: Provence Alps and pre-Alps, Group: Verdon Gorge, Peak: Gorges du Verdon, Height: 1000m, Country: France, Region: Haute-Provence

Nice little three-pitch route up excellent rock, easy to get to as it is located close to the Belvedere Dent d'Aire shortly after La Carel. El Gringo Loco is a good introduction to the longer more exposed climbs in the Verdon.

GETTING THERE

From the north: take the A6 motoway to Avignon and take the N100 for Apt, then Manosque and Riez. From here take the D56 to Moustiers, and continue along the D952 to La Palud.

From the south: from Nice take the N85 to Castellane, and continue along the D952 for La Palud. Shortly before entering the village turn left along the D23, the panoramic Route des Cretes, which leads to the Belvedere de la Carelle lookout and the routes.

ACCESS

Park at the Belvedere Dent d’Aire and use the abseil station. Two 45 abseils lead to the massive terrace and the start of the route.

ROUTE

Start as for Petit Chat, after circa 8m break left. Three 30m pitches, perfectly equipped, twin bolt belays.
P1: 5c
P2: 6a
P3: 6a

GEAR

12 quickdraws, slings for the belays, prussiks for the abseils, helmet.

NOTES

There are three other interesting routes with similar difficulties in this sector (Les Cantonier 6a+ max, Dolce Vita 6a+ max, Petit Chat 6a+ max).

The Verdon requires perfect abseiling technique. Never forget to tie a knot in the end of the ropes, and tie into prussik loops, prior to abseiling.

MAPS/BIBLIOGRAPHY

"Escalade au Verdon" by P. Légier, F. Ristori and A. Jam

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Details / route
BEAUTY

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PERIOD

Spring and autumn. The Gorges du Verdon are situated on a plateau at almost 1000m: summer can oftern be too hot, while from October onwards it may be too cold to climb.

DIFFICULTY

6a

FACE

West

LENGTH

90m

LINK ZONE

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LINK

www.xmountain.it/padova

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