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Eau et gaz à toutes les étages

First ascent: JM. Boivin, M. Moioli, F. Diaferia
By: Roberto Rossi
Area: Graian Alps, Group: Mont Blanc, Peak: Grand Capucin, Country: France

A spectacular, demanding and, as the name suggests, extremely airy route. Not to be underestimated at any costs: retreat is a difficult proposition, and almost impossible above the great roof. Psychologically more demanding than Voyage or Elixir, but highly rewarding. After the pitch shared with Bonatti-Ghigo (40m wall), don't climb north up the exit for “Directe des Capucins”, as the cracks are almost always filled with snow and ice and therefore unprotectable and runout. Instead, continue to the obvious roof with in-situ pegs. Friends are used on many belays, a hammer isn't necessary. A pendulum is carried out beneath the large roofs!

ACCESS

From Rifugio Torino (3375m) traverse west towards Col des Flambeaux. From here continue beneath the cable car and left to then continue at altitude towards the inconfoundable Grand Capucin. Start directly beneath the enormous grey corner, capped by a large roof.

DESCENT

Abseil down using the belays on Voyage + Elisir (final three abseils).

GEAR

Full rack of friends, at least two n.5.

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COMMENTS for the route "Eau et gaz à toutes les étages"

11-11-2008, Ricotti Marcello
Una via classica con difficoltà non classiche. Chiodi ce ne sono ma da integrare anche le soste. Porta 2 camlot 5 per l'offwidth dopo il tetto. Il martello serve x ribattere eventuali chiodi. Per nulla facili e su roccia mediocre i tiri dopo terrazze bonatti. Ci ho messo 10 h. Con Giovanni Rivolta.
03-09-2002, dddddrr qwertrt
se ti caghi in mano a fare le soste su friends...porta il maertello...
02-09-2002, m
Bella via impegnativa e di soddisfazione, ma con alcuni tratti di roccia non sempre solida. Un consiglio: non date retta a chi vi dice di lasciare a casa il martello... portatelo!
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

ED+, 7c max.

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6b obbl.

FACE

East

LENGTH

400m

LINK ZONE

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