Schubert - Piz Ciavazes
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Schubert
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
P. Schubert & K. H. Matthies 1967
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
N
Length
200m
Difficulty
6-
Obligatory difficulty
6-
Route
A classic route, one of the most popular on this wall, that takes a long line along the arête to the right of the large chimney that splits the Piz Ciavazes face in half. The belays are bolted and the route is well-equipped throughout with in-situ pegs.
Getting there
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. Access
From the car park follow a small path up to the wall. Head towards the obvious large chimney: the route starts up a small yellow corner capped by a roof about 20m to the left. Descent
Reach the ledge at half-height and traverse west (towards Passo Sella) following the obvious path (exposed at times but equipped with metal cables). After a short rise, close to the Sella towers, follow obvious tracks down over polished rock. The path gains height once more before reaching a fork and final step: descend left to return to the car or continue right to reach Passo Sella easily. Gear
A set of wires, kevlar threads and medium sized friends for the corner.
From Passo Sella continue for a few kilometers to reach a long straight section and parking spaces on the right, immediately beneath the south face. From Canazei continue part the bar/restaurant Monti Pallidi to the hairpin bend and parking spaces immediately afterwards on the left. Access
From the car park follow a small path up to the wall. Head towards the obvious large chimney: the route starts up a small yellow corner capped by a roof about 20m to the left. Descent
Reach the ledge at half-height and traverse west (towards Passo Sella) following the obvious path (exposed at times but equipped with metal cables). After a short rise, close to the Sella towers, follow obvious tracks down over polished rock. The path gains height once more before reaching a fork and final step: descend left to return to the car or continue right to reach Passo Sella easily. Gear
A set of wires, kevlar threads and medium sized friends for the corner.
Comments
27/07/2011 Chris
Nice route, decent protection but few runouts on good rock. Supposed crux felt easier than other parts of the route. Leader should be comfortable on 6.
26/08/2009 Marco Gnaccarini
Fatta l'11 agosto 2009 Bella via con ottima roccia, soste ottime e chiodata dove serve.
Un po' unta ma pensavo peggio.
Peccato che è corta, infatti dopo siamo andati in falesia.
Consigliata per la comodità d'accesso.
23/07/2007 Alessandro Vitali
Bella via e divertente nonostante che la roccia sia nella prima parte, a volte , un pò unta. La chiodatura è presente nei passaggi chiave della salita. Un grazie al mio compagno ed amico Andrea.Buon divertimento a tutti che la saliranno!
23/08/2006 renato sablich
Bella via abbastanza chiodata (i chiodi sono presenti dove necessario). Qualcuno non consente il moschettonaggio diretto e va passato un cordino. Un chiodo nel diedro iniziale ( utili friend medio - piccoli)o dadi medio/grossi). La prima metà offre difficoltà sostenute: il qrado si abbassa nella 2° metà e la roccia diventa ottima. Non si discute sul fatto che il primo tiro e in parte il secondo hanno appoggi decisamente scivolosi.
Beauty
First ascent
P. Schubert & K. H. Matthies 1967
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
N
Length
200m
Difficulty
6-
Obligatory difficulty
6-
Route
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