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Chanson de Pres verts

First ascent: J. Marie, P. Sanchou & J. M. Poey, 17/11/1997, equipped from above
By: Maurizio Oviglia
Area: Corsica, Group: Vallee du Tavignano, Peak: Rossolino, Country: France, Region: Corsica

On the whole the climbing is less beautiful than that on Ombre e Lumiere, but some pitches are nevertheless interesting and worth doing. The route climbs the right-hand side of the tower, following a series of enormous steps up good rock.

GETTING THERE

Start at Corte.

ACCESS

Leave the car at Corte and follow signs for Valle di Tavignano. Follow the path which enters the valley at half-height, high above the river. Walk for about 1.5 hours to where the valley narrows and the path leads past the Rossolino rocks (1.45 hours from the car). It is possible to descend to the river at this point. The route starts in a narrow gully to the left.

ROUTE

P1: 6b
P2: 7a
P3: 6a+
P4: 6b+
P5: 6a+
P6: 5c
P7: 6b
P8: 5c

DESCENT

Abseil down the line of ascent (50m ropes, prussik loops).

GEAR

10 quickdraws, double 50m x 9mm ropes. The route is equipped with 10mm stainless steel bolts. 

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COMMENTS for the route "Chanson de Pres verts"

12-01-2005, tommaso
bella salita in ambiente solitario e surreale, sembra tutto meno che di essere in un isola in mezzo al mare!E ben protetta e non serve materiale per integrare, parte in corrispondenza della grotta.Siamo poi scesi poi per un'altra via perchè le soste non erano attrezzate, mi pare che si chiamasse l'ombra e la luce.
Details / route
BEAUTY

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DIFFICULTY

7a max

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6a+

FACE

South

LENGTH

200m

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