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Jeef

First ascent: Arnaud & Francois Petit, 1992, from above
By: Maurizio Oviglia
Area: Corsica, Group: Bavella, Peak: Punta di U Corbu, Country: France, Region: Corsica

Significantly harder than  Dos de l’éléphant, Jeef is a masterpiece in terms of beauty and the demanding nature of its climbing - photos of the route have been published in magazines worldwide. 6b is obligatory and potential repeaters should master this grade with ease. A set of camming devices is highly recommended to integrate the run-outs. The third pitch is known to being morphological. The final section joins up with the Elefante and reaches the summit of Punta U Corbu by climbing 4 pitches first ascended by the Petit brothers in 1993. From the summit abseil down Delicatessen via a series of impressive and complicated abseils.

GETTING THERE

From Solenzara take the road towards. After Bocca di Larone (608 m), the view opens onto the  beautiful granite towers. Continue to the bridge at  Polischellu and park the car here.

ACCESS

Do not follow the path on the right (hydrographic left) which leads to Teghie Lisce, but follow a track along the other bank. Keep as close as possible to the river and, when you reach a reddish rock face (circa 30 minutes from the bridge) ascend up a dry river bed to the base of an obvious rounded pillar (1.15 hours)

DESCENT

From the top of Delicatessen (south face). The descent is demanding; diagonal and overhanging,  clip the quickdraws during you abseil to remain close to the rock (50m ropes, prussik indispensable).

GEAR

12 quickdraws, friends 0,5,2 e 3 indispensable, double 50m x 9mm ropes, a selection of nuts. The route is equipped with 10mm bolts.

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COMMENTS for the route "Jeef"

21-04-2008, Alex Mayer
Via bellisima, dall atacco fino in cima. Sopratutto il tetto nella parte alta è una meraviglia.
24-05-2006, enrico pastori
Via meravigliosa e impegnativa da sola vale il viaggio in Corsica. La chiodatura è abbastanza lunga ma non pericolosa friends non necessari. Affrontarla solo se padroni del grado obbligatorio su granito (placche appoggiate), i due tiri più duri sono caratterizzati da passi boulder facilmente azzerabili. Un commento dettagliato della via e dell'accesso è sul libro d'oro del rifugio di Col Di Bavella consigliabile anche per pernottare.
Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

7a+ max

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6b expo

FACE

S

LENGTH

400m

LINK ZONE

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