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Democratia

First ascent: J. P. Quilici & D. Trècul, 07/1988
By: Maurizio Oviglia
Area: Corsica, Group: Bavella, Peak: Punta di U Diamante, Country: France, Region: Corsica

Dèmocratia is a splendid granite route, reminiscent of many alpine outings. Demanding slabs alternate with a difficult central pitch up small crystal knobs. The bolting is excellent and never excessive, while the granite itself is also clean of vegetation. The approach is relatively easy (if you chose the right path) and the enormous boulders are scattered on the panoramic summit. The route is a classic in its own right – don't forget to sign the summit book.

GETTING THERE

From Zonza follow the road toward Porto Vecchio to Bocca dell’Illarata (991m). Continue for 2 km and park the car in the layby, in view of the mountain.

ACCESS

A small pine forest is located on your right, without undergrowth for circa 30m. Walk to the impenetrable Mediterranean shrub and follow this until you come across a path, marked with cairns, which leads to the left of the wall. Then traverse diagonally right to reach the base of the climb (30 minutes). Take care not to follow the instructions in the other guidebooks, these tend to be vague and it's easy to get lost.

ROUTE

P1: 6a
P2: 6b
P3: 6a
P4: 6c
P5: 4c

DESCENT

Abseil down the route.

GEAR

12 quickdraws, double 50m x 9mm ropes. The route is equipped with 8mm bolts.

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Details / route
BEAUTY

stella stella stella stella stella

DIFFICULTY

6c max

OBLIGATORY DIFFICULTY

6a+

FACE

S

LENGTH

180m

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