Demetz - II Torre del Sella
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Demetz
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Gluck, Demetz 1935
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
NW
Length
250m
Height
2597m
Difficulty
V
Obligatory difficulty
V
Route
One of the great classic and most recommended routes on the Sella. The first section climbs the west face and leads leftwards to the exposed NW arête to continue up this to the summit. The short corner crux leads onto the arête at about half-height and is graded 6 or AO. The line then follows a series of good but exposed corners and cracks to the summit. Given the orientation the route is often cold, even in summer, especially if you opt for an early start.
Access
From P. Sella take the path that leads beneath the north faces of the Torri del Sella. Leave this and follow the obvious track up to the start in the middle of the west face of the II Torre. Allow 20 minutes for the walk-in. Descent
From the summit descend (I and II) eastwards to reach the col between the II Torre and the arête that leads up from Piz Ciavazes. From here follow the path down easy stepped terain to meet up with the descent route from the Ist tower. Walk beneath the south face of the Ist tower and return to the pass. Gear
A set of wires, friends and kevlar threads.
From P. Sella take the path that leads beneath the north faces of the Torri del Sella. Leave this and follow the obvious track up to the start in the middle of the west face of the II Torre. Allow 20 minutes for the walk-in. Descent
From the summit descend (I and II) eastwards to reach the col between the II Torre and the arête that leads up from Piz Ciavazes. From here follow the path down easy stepped terain to meet up with the descent route from the Ist tower. Walk beneath the south face of the Ist tower and return to the pass. Gear
A set of wires, friends and kevlar threads.
Comments
10/09/2012 Renzo Bragantini
Fatta tanti anni fa con mio fratello salvatore. La ricordo molto bella, non scontata, su roccia ottima. Decisamente da consigliare.
10/06/2004 Piero Pagliani
Vale la pena percorrerla. E' su roccia buona e non è mai banale.Una piccola classica che merita.
21/09/2003 Matteo xx
Al secondo tiro occhioo ad non attraversare troppo in basso x un cengia erbosa che poi verticalizza (chiodo) che porta a sx dello spigolo su un diedro spesso bagnato.
18/08/2003 chris
ottima,molto bella,remunerativa e consigliabile a non espertissimi.un po precari i chiodi sulla seconda sosta,in placca..meglio non appendersi come salami..
Beauty
First ascent
Gluck, Demetz 1935
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
NW
Length
250m
Height
2597m
Difficulty
V
Obligatory difficulty
V
Route
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