Via Cassin - Cima Piccolissima di Lavaredo

Planetmountain
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Via Cassin: Via Cassin on Cima Piccolissima Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Planetmountain
Beauty
First ascent
Riccardo Cassin, Luigi Pozzi, Gigi Vitali, 1934
By
Planetmountain
Orientation
SE
Length
350m
Difficulty
7-
Obligatory difficulty
6-/A0

Route



The short overhanging yellow wall of the Cima Piccolissima is breached by the demanding Via Cassin. All loose holds on this stratified dolomite have been cleaned. The route faces SE and is therefore climbable before and after summer.

Getting there

The ideal starting points are Cortina d'Ampezzo and Auronzo. These can be reached from the north via the Pusteria Valley, or from the south by first taking the motorway (A27) to Longarone and then following the state road northwards. Both points of departure lead to Misurina, from where a private toll-road winds steeply almost to the base of the Tre Cime's south faces. Park the car at Rifugio Auronzo, situated at the end of the road and either sleep here or in Rifugio Lavaredo, reached by following the path for 15 minutes underneath the majestic South Faces which contain, amongst many other famous routes, the Spigolo Giallo.

Access

Walk to the forcella Lavaredo and follow the small path leftwards to the base of the wall. Start beneath the obvious diagonal corner, reached by scrambling up the ledges.

Descent

Abseil down using the abseil rings (do not use the pegs). The first abseil leads from the summit to a ledge: traverse right to a small terrace on the North West Face (this can otherwise be reached by traversing along the ledge prior to the last pitch before the easy final chimney). Two abseils lead to the saddle that separates the Piccolissima from the Punta di Frida. Five further abseils down the South East gully lead back down to the foot of the wall. Beware of loose stones.

Gear

Take a full set of wires, friends, slings, kevlar threads and plenty of quickdraws.





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04/09/2006 tarcisio cadorini
via molto bella tecnica e a tratti atletica ma ben appigliata,su roccia tipica delle tre cime.La chiodatura e' classica(portare il martello per ribattere qualche chiodo),ma tutto sommato molto buona.Via di grande soddisfazione sia per l'ambiente sia per le difficolta'.Complimenti al coraggio dei primi salitari.buona scalata
29/06/2006 didi gil
geniale steile route in super fels. gut gesichert, vui spaass,
27/11/2005 andrea berardi
Via splendida!!Per la storia, l'ambiente e le difficoltà.Non è facile per chi non ci è abituato scalare su quella roccia gialla così "apparentemente"friabile!!Un grazie ai miei compagni di cordata Marzio,Claudia ePier.
10/06/2004 Piero Pagliani
Leggermente più difficile dello Spigolo Giallo. Scalata tecnica e delicata, non di forza, con alcuni passaggi gustosi. E poi si tocca la storia dell'alpinismo.