The routes

Climbing routes

9
Routes in archive
Destini Incrociati
Destini Incrociati - Monte Cimo - Castel Presina Parete Rossa
8a (7b obligatory.), S3 (3m-7m runouts),
Highly technical climbing on slightly overhanging rock, with a crux slab pitch. Strong fingers needed for the small crimps. Redpoint repeat: Andrea Simonini and Rolando Larcher. No on-sight as yet. Best time of year: October to April.
Fuori come Merli
Fuori come Merli - Eldorado - Chiusa di Ceraino
7c
Opened ground-up, using skyhooks to place the bolts, Fuori come Merli is 120m high and spectacular. Beautiful beyond belief, the first two pitches that are a work of art of Mother Nature. The central roof tackles a logical line before...
Horror Vacui and Horror Vacui Soft
Horror Vacui and Horror Vacui Soft - Monte Cimo - Scoglio dei Ciclopi
8b+
Exciting route though a huge overhang, established ground-up past great rock.
L'Uovo di Colombo
L'Uovo di Colombo - Monte Brento
7c+ max, 7a+ soft
In mid-June Rolando Larcher and Herman Zanetti made the first ascent of L'uovo di Colombo up Monte Cimo in Val d'Adige. A 200m route that breaches the obvious large roofs with two different options: hard 7c+ and soft 7a+.
Le Petit Homme et la Grande Femme
Le Petit Homme et la Grande Femme - Eldorado - Chiusa di Ceraino
6c+
The easiest route up the Eldorado face at Chiusa di Ceraino, first ascended by Andrea Simonini in 2015
Spirito Baldense
Spirito Baldense - Spalti di Pratovecchio
6b
A logical route, previously noticed by climbers from Avio but completed by Beppe Vidali and Sergio Coltri. Excellent rock, difficulties never too extreme, set in a wild area yet accessable area. Bolted climb with a distinctly alpine feel.
Testa o Croce
Testa o Croce - Monte Cimo - Scoglio dei Ciclopi
8b
The route offers varied climbing up magnificent rock: a warm-up pitch up "coral-like" rock is followed by a very overhanging pitch with a no-hands rest at half-height and a hard fingery sequence to reach the belay. Pitch 3, after a...
The Edge
The Edge - Monte Cimo - Sass Mesdì
8a (7b obligatory), S3/4 (4,5m - 8m runouts), II (tecnica, chiodatura, ambiente)
Airy route that zigzags its way along the aerie past the large roofs. Exposure is the hallmark of this climb and almost all pitches contain bouldery cruxes. The easier sections are fairly run-out. This, combined with the exposure, creates an...
Tra Nuvole e Sogni
Tra Nuvole e Sogni - Monte Cimo, Sass Mesdì
8a (7b obligatory), S3+
The crux pitch is overhanging and runs along a series of tufas. The pitches that follow are extremely technical. The unique 4th pitch (7c+) follows the arch via the few holds the rock provides. The 6th pitch (technical 7b) is...


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